Converter/Battery Charger

RoyB wrote:
......Here is a typical 30A Electrical Configuration setup...........Roy Ken

Sure wish I saw your post before I did all this typing.
Unsurprisingly, boats and RV's operate the same way except for the different shaped hulls.

Thanks guys. I just thought that a converter would serve another purpose other than being a charger. I guess the manufacturers marketers think can get more money for a converter than for a charger. I also understand the purpose also, it will help prevent someone from using a cheap charger and burn the rig down.

Typically on cruising boats, we have 3 battery banks in addition to a generator, so when we buy a charger, it has to be a 3 bank charger. The banks are as follows: One bank is for the port engine, one bank for the starboard engine and one bank for the house batteries. The port and starboard engines just have one starting battery for each engine and are charged as separate banks. The House bank typically has 2 or more batteries in parallel to run everything except for engines. That accounts for the 3 banks
The generator has a separate starting battery and is not normally included or counted as a bank because the generator is self charging it's own battery.
In addition, we have an Inverter that is getting it's power from the House battery bank only. On boats my size (36') the Inverter is usually only about 1000 to 1500 Watts. Our Inverter is only wired to energize the switches on the AC Panel for the fridge and the starboard side AC outlets which includes the TV, fluorescent lights, small ice maker and fans.
When we are running, the alternators are charging the batteries as we go.
This eliminated the need to run the generator. When anchored out somewhere, our 2 house batteries will hold up for about 12 hours before going down to 10.5 V which is our Inverter shut off point. By using the separate banks, we dont have to worry about running down the starting batteries.
In addition, we have a Battery Isolator. It is a unit that is basically large diodes. The DC inputs are the engine alternators and the DC outputs are the battery banks. The Isolator isolates each battery bank from inadvertantly stealing 12V DC from eachother. Without the isolator, sometimes one bank can steal electricity through the alternator from anothe bank.

Our converter takes shore power and converts it to 12 volt power for my lights and stuff even without a battery in the rig.

Here is a typical 30A Electrical Configuration setup.

As you can see the 120VAC and 12VDC Power Distribution Center is the hub for all things Electrical... Also note the trailer SAFETY LIGHTS are not included in this panel. Those 12VDC voltages are supplied by the TOW VEHICLE through the 7-way trailer connector.

The CONVERTER UNIT provide the 12VDC POWER for the the 12VDC side of the Power Distribution Panel. While the CONVERTER is being operated it will also become your BATTERY CHARGER since both units are connected to the same point for providing 12VDC power to the 12VDC Power Distribution Panel.

The Trailer battery also feeds the same 12VDc Side of the Power Distribution.

This is how your trailer can operate using both Shore Power or Generator and Battery.

Shore Power will run ALL of your installed Appliances and systems and without Shore Power the Battery will run only the minimum items and lights to enjoy camping with no electric hookups... You can camp out pretty good with the aid of your propane tanks and Battery bank. This is my favorite way to camp...



If you are going to do alot of camping off grid using your battery it would be a great idea to change out your automotive interiors lights to LED LIGHTS and also increase your battery capacity.

Keep in mind when you are towing your trailer the Working Battery is required by the US DOT when used on PUBLIC ROADWAYS to be able to operate your trailer Electric Bakes in the event the trailer becomes disconnected from your tow vehicle. The on-board trailer battery will send 12VDC to your Electric Brakes stopping your run-away trailer. This is a required DOT SAFETY Feature...

I always refer the the converter as a Converter/Charger when talking about them. Alot of folks still just call the Inverters which is wrong.

Hope this helps some...
Roy Ken

Campers are designed to be used with no hookups, the addition of the converter just keeps batteries topped off when you are plugged in. Provided batteries are charged, all electric jacks and lights, heater, water pump from fresh tank can be used. 1 12V battery will not last long under draw, some use 2 6V batteries to gain amp hours. Batteries will only charge when plugged in to electric.

If you want to think of a power converter as a glorified battery charger, you can. Both take 120VAC input and produce nominal 12VDC output. In RV terminology, you have power converters (convert 120VAC to 12VDC) and power inverters (convert 12VDC to 120VAC). That's just the lingo.

In a pinch, I've run the 12VDC side of RVs off of battery chargers when a power converter failed.

Rusty

Here is what I am used to on boats:
All 12 volt accessories, including lights, are run straight from the batteries. The Battery Charger charger charges the batteries when plugged into 110V AC or the alternators charge the batteries when running the engines.
So, on RV's you run 12V accessories directly from the Converter? If so, why?

A battery charger just charges batteries but doesn't let you use the power in the battery. A converter will normally also be a battery charger as well as a way to use the battery to power 12 volt items. Battery charger is one way. Converter is two way.

OK, so a Converter is another word for battery Charger

Campers are designed to run primarily on 12 volts. While plugged in to electric, the converter keeps 12V batteries charged. Only thing you cannot run on batteries is, A/C or microwave.. Converters have a 12V side and a 120 side.
Do a search on this site for" 12V side of life", maybe someone can add link