Disc brake temps

Planning wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:

I have a set of National seals that are designed for oil bath. I will be changing my 8k IS system to that soon.

I went with oil bath when I had my disc brake system installed, but I have no idea what brand seal they installed. My first iteration (as installed by the RV dealership) had two wheels/bearings that leaked. After replacement they have worked flawlessly. Although more than likely overkill, I drain and refill the hubs annually with Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lube.

Two issues are 1. The proper seal type, and 2. proper installation.

For number 1: "Unitized oil seals" are the most robust system for wet bath hubs. These are "dual action" seals whereby the inner part stays fixed on the spindle and the outer rotates with the hub. Unitized seals are more expensive than regular oil and grease seals. The best price I have found (my size is the Dexter 10-63) is here.

2: Proper installation (not suggesting you do not know) is to slide the the hub/rotor all the way onto the spindle one movement. If the tech (incorrectly) hangs the hub/rotor by the installed seal that can damage a seal by placing uneven pressure upon one lip of the seal.

Cummins, what seal part number do you use on yours?

I bought these on AMAZON $19.95 ea, these are top quality US Made. YES the seal spins within it's self NOT on the spindle.

Anyone ever looked into Vault hubs? Dexter bought them out a couple years ago. I have them on my tandem axle bay boat trailer. Uses a hybrid oil/grease.
No maintenance with a 10 year warranty available. About every saltwater boat trailer around here is using them. Not sure of weight ratings.

Cummins12V98 wrote:

I have a set of National seals that are designed for oil bath. I will be changing my 8k IS system to that soon.

I went with oil bath when I had my disc brake system installed, but I have no idea what brand seal they installed. My first iteration (as installed by the RV dealership) had two wheels/bearings that leaked. After replacement they have worked flawlessly. Although more than likely overkill, I drain and refill the hubs annually with Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lube.

Two issues are 1. The proper seal type, and 2. proper installation.

For number 1: "Unitized oil seals" are the most robust system for wet bath hubs. These are "dual action" seals whereby the inner part stays fixed on the spindle and the outer rotates with the hub. Unitized seals are more expensive than regular oil and grease seals. The best price I have found (my size is the Dexter 10-63) is here.

2: Proper installation (not suggesting you do not know) is to slide the the hub/rotor all the way onto the spindle one movement. If the tech (incorrectly) hangs the hub/rotor by the installed seal that can damage a seal by placing uneven pressure upon one lip of the seal.

Cummins, what seal part number do you use on yours?

Cummins12V98 wrote:

ford truck guy wrote:

DIVECOP 1 wrote:
I'm bringing my Open Range to Morride in 2 weeks for the ISS and disc brakes. How did your install go, any problems?

.


It went great, which was expected.... the do great work and the difference is night and day.. do yourself a favor while its there and have the Timken Bearing upgrade done as well.. ask Brian Hosinski or Gary Wheeler for the details..

IMHO it's SAD at that price level you should even have to ask for quality bearings!!! While you are at it I highly suggest requesting National seals.

I have a set of National seals that are designed for oil bath. I will be changing my 8k IS system to that soon.

Ron,

I should clarify . . I called Brian late in the install to say that I forgot to ask for the Timken upgrade and to find out if it was too late.. He stated to me that they automatically add it when upgrading... They would rather add it and answer to the customer as to why, then allow the upgrade to leave with inferior bearings...

The final price I was quoted did not change with the addition of Timkens...

ford truck guy wrote:

DIVECOP 1 wrote:
I'm bringing my Open Range to Morride in 2 weeks for the ISS and disc brakes. How did your install go, any problems?

.


It went great, which was expected.... the do great work and the difference is night and day.. do yourself a favor while its there and have the Timken Bearing upgrade done as well.. ask Brian Hosinski or Gary Wheeler for the details..

IMHO it's SAD at that price level you should even have to ask for quality bearings!!! While you are at it I highly suggest requesting National seals.

I have a set of National seals that are designed for oil bath. I will be changing my 8k IS system to that soon.

DIVECOP 1 wrote:
I'm bringing my Open Range to Morride in 2 weeks for the ISS and disc brakes. How did your install go, any problems?

.


It went great, which was expected.... the do great work and the difference is night and day.. do yourself a favor while its there and have the Timken Bearing upgrade done as well.. ask Brian Hosinski or Gary Wheeler for the details..

I'm bringing my Open Range to Morride in 2 weeks for the ISS and disc brakes. How did your install go, any problems?

Cummins12V98 wrote:


Sounds like a winner. Are they US Made?

I called Raybestos direct and spoke with their technical department.

D-215 series pads (same as mine and yours) are a "pad from an older model car...depending upon how the warehouse rotates stock they might be U.S. made or might be China"

(What he meant by older is that the D-215 pad is specified OEM for the 1983 Buick Century and other GM variants.)

Ron, please keep me in the loop when you find USA made pads...... ALl I ave left are the NAPA pads that I'll use in a pinch...

Joe

Planning wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:
Planning,

That is the end of the caliper. I filed both ends and the two mating surfaces on the caliper mounting bracket.

Thanks for the link!

No problem.

I researched your Napa Brakes and they are rebranded "Friction Master" brand, with the FMSI (Friction Material Standards Institute) number of D215-7136.

That part number is a direct interchange with the Raybestos PGD215M Professional Grade Semi-Metallic.

Sounds like a winner. Are they US Made?