Disc Brakes: 1 Piece Rotor/Hub vs. 2-Piece Rotor & Idler Hub

Thanks, Irelands child. Appreciate the helpful installation and maintenance tips.

Irelands child wrote:
Whichever one works for you is your best bet. And what I mean by that is you will most likely need to purchase a separate hub (added cost) if that's the way you want to go as the 7K RV axles I've seen have the integral hub and rotor rather then the two piece. I just made that choice with 6K axles and went with the one piece . . .

There's about a $20-$30 difference in price between the Kodiak 1-piece and Kodiak 2-piece rotor and idler hub option.

When I factor in the similar prices, plus the ability to service/replace only the rotor and/or idler hub if I so choose, the 2-piece, separate rotor and hub option seems like the way to go from my perspective.

Whichever one works for you is your best bet. And what I mean by that is you will most likely need to purchase a separate hub (added cost) if that's the way you want to go as the 7K RV axles I've seen have the integral hub and rotor rather then the two piece. I just made that choice with 6K axles and went with the one piece.

For tire to RV clearances - dig into the Kodiak web site and you will find engineering drawings of their products. You can then dig (deeply!!)into the Dexter website and find very similar drawings of their drums. You will then need to do some comparison sketches to confirm they are in a pretty close physical relationship.

Regardless of whichever way you go, you still need to add over 100 bucks for GOOD bearing cones added to your cost. The cups are already installed.

As far as maintenance - it still needs to be done every 12K miles or every couple years, whichever comes first(Dexter says 12k miles or 12 months). Then there is the fact that if a rotor has any damage, you can usually see it through the wheel spokes - and quite frankly, dang little chance of damage happening outside of a bearing that hasn't been tended to on a regular basis. Pads for Kodiak calipers are '80s-'90s GM products heavy duty ceramics, available at any NAPA or similar.

What balance problems? Motor vehicles have had 2 piece hub and rotor assemblies for decades with no balance problems

Do your homework well on actuators and brake lines. It gets confusing, but you need a 1500-1600 psig actuator and a good line 'kit'. Some of the line kits are not made for full floating calipers plus some 'kits' have a 90 degree fitting on the caliper end of the rubber lines which may or may not work for your arrangement.

Good luck - and study the choices well :-}

otrfun wrote:

WeBeFulltimers wrote:

Roger10378 wrote:
There is a higher chance of balance problems with the 2 piece hub and rotor as the rotor must have some clearance to be able to install it on the hub. Other than that they are about the same. I went with one piece and am very happy with them.

I am also installing disc brakes in the Spring and researched this. For the reason stated above I have also decided on the one piece hub/rotor from Kodiak.

Thanks for the replies.

Is this potential balance problem pertain to disc brakes with separate rotor and hub assemblies in general? Or, is this issue specific to the trailer version (i.e., Kodiak)?

On a different note, any chance a disc brake conversion will change the position of the tire/wheel? Our tires are positioned up and inside the fender skirt, with only ~1" of clearance between the side of the tire and the outside fender skirt.

Not sure what balance problems a person would have anymore than balance problems vs a car/truck. Any rotor and hub I've ever seen fits pretty snug...if you have one that's loose fitting then somethings not right! I believe the rotors/hubs are automotive parts adapted to use on an RV so other than the attachment to the axles I can't see there would be any difference.

I keep looking at this kit: ($1,750 for your axles)

http://www.performancetrailerbraking.com/disc-brakes

one piece rotor looks good to me.

tinner12002 wrote:
I like the idea of only having to just replace the rotor if needed than to replace the whole hub/rotor combo...less expensive also to just replace rotor.

I like the one piece, not that much and by the time I need new rotors, I will need new bearing. The new hubs come with the race (bearing cage) installed, makes the install job easier...IMHO. To each his own

WeBeFulltimers wrote:

Roger10378 wrote:
There is a higher chance of balance problems with the 2 piece hub and rotor as the rotor must have some clearance to be able to install it on the hub. Other than that they are about the same. I went with one piece and am very happy with them.

I am also installing disc brakes in the Spring and researched this. For the reason stated above I have also decided on the one piece hub/rotor from Kodiak.

Thanks for the replies.

Is this potential balance problem pertain to disc brakes with separate rotor and hub assemblies in general? Or, is this issue specific to the trailer version (i.e., Kodiak)?

On a different note, any chance a disc brake conversion will change the position of the tire/wheel? Our tires are positioned up and inside the fender skirt, with only ~1" of clearance between the side of the tire and the outside fender skirt.

I like the idea of only having to just replace the rotor if needed than to replace the whole hub/rotor combo...less expensive also to just replace rotor.

Roger10378 wrote:
There is a higher chance of balance problems with the 2 piece hub and rotor as the rotor must have some clearance to be able to install it on the hub. Other than that they are about the same. I went with one piece and am very happy with them.

I am also installing disc brakes in the Spring and researched this. For the reason stated above I have also decided on the one piece hub/rotor from Kodiak.

There is a higher chance of balance problems with the 2 piece hub and rotor as the rotor must have some clearance to be able to install it on the hub. Other than that they are about the same. I went with one piece and am very happy with them.