Dometic Refridgerator stopped cooling

What is not working....electric or propane side or both?
1/4 bubble off level is nothing so I can assure you that is not the issue.

Before you talk about replacing it, I'd have a mobile tech in your area check it out....it would be worth the service call charge.

A little more info would help. How old is it, like mentioned , not working on gas or electric. If no ammonia smell, that is good. I agree a little off level, should not have caused the problem. Was it working great just recently, or not used in a while?

Jerry

W/O more info very hard to post anything but guesses

Here are Common Issues....LINK


Go thru above link and do a little troubleshooting


Post more detail info such as:
No Display/Interior Light.
Has Display Lights....doesn't cool on AC Power
Has Display Lights....does/doesn't work on propane (no spark/no flame---has flame/no cooling

New units can be very expensive unless you are thinking about a residential unit. As stated earlier if there is/was no ammonia smell and there is no yellow powdery residue around the gas burner (indicates a cooling unit leak) than a repair will be A LOT less expensive and less invasive than a replacement. Even if there is an ammonia smell or yellow residue it will still be a lot less expensive to repair.
If the cooling unit is ok then there isn’t much else left.
Control board, Blown fuse, Rodents ate wires, all fairly inexpensive.

All display lights work as does the interior light. Wires and fuses are good. No ammonia smell. Was working well until yesterday. The Fridge is original to the unit, it is a 2002 fifth wheel.

I haven't tried it on gas as propane is expensive here. I was wondering if control board or relay.

My multi meter has a broken wire so I've not been able to check things as I'd like.
Not much daylight when I get home from work.

I'm no refrigerator guy so I'm somewhat out of my area, so forgive me if I don't know proper terminology. I took the access panel off again. The pipes are cool above the "bottle"; I'm guessing the refrigerant. The pipes below the "bottle" are a little warm as is the "bottle" itself as is the rectifier (ammonia exchange).

OK ....
So the 120V AC is NOT working

Have to start at outlet fridge power cord is plugged into
Does it work? (plug ANY 120V AC item into it and verify it is hot)
If NO..check for tripped 120V AC Circuit Breaker
IF YES
Then need to check the AC Fuse on the lower circuit board
Glass Fuse....5a most likely
Is fuse Good....120V AC on Both sides of fuse?
If NO...replace fuse and replace heat element
If YES...then need to check that you have AC Voltage on circuit board where the Electric Heat Element leads connect.

Typically when no cooling on AC
It is bad heat element

It is not going to cost much to test it on propane and they don't use a lot anyway. The hot water heater and floor heaters use far more.

Power cord is hot and fuses are good.

The flue is warm to the touch, so I'm unsure about the heat element being bad. I may take it out to have a look see. Maybe I'll change the fuses anyway. At this point I'm thinking control board.