I recognize that the internet breeds paranoia. I've read several threads over the years about dropped fifth wheels on pickups, but another current thread got me to wondering. I have a Pullrite Superglide that I'm very happy with. The wrap-around jaws make it difficult to believe that they could release if closed properly, and it's hard to understand how they could be closed improperly.All of that preamble is setting up the question. Has anyone actually dropped a fifth-wheel using a Pullrite Superglide? Not looking for "saw one dropped once" or "heard of one" etc. Just trying to understand if anyone has live experience with this problem when using a Pullrite.As always, thanks.Ron

Maybe they didn't live thru it, so can't respond.

We almost dropped our 5th wheel using our pull rite the first time. It was purely our inexperience because we had never done it ourselves. The dealer hooked it up and then explained!! Fortunately, We left the front jacks about 2 inches off the ground, and I was watching as DH pulled forward. When I saw the trailer hitch start to slide out, I yelled "stop!", but when he put the truck in park, it slid out far enough to land on the jacks. We were a mess, but no damage and we finally got connected and it never happened again. We learned everything the hard way.

Regardless of hitch type, 99% of the time it is not a mechanical failure when this happens, it is either poor procedure or getting out of sequence due to rushing or being interrupted when hooking up or unhooking.

Generally speaking, I have a hard time thinking any hitch would drop out unless it wasn't properly engaged. And I can't understand the pull test either. When my hitch is connected, I can see that it is and a pull test seems unnecessary. Maybe some hitches you can't tell by looking at it. My hitch is a Reese.

path1 wrote:Maybe they didn't live thru it, so can't respond.:B:B:B

Dropped 5er with Pullrite SuperGlide? | Good Sam Community

Dave_H_M
Explorer II
Jul 11, 2015
I don't recall doing a pull test ever. I see no reason for it if the jaws have closed and locked.

I do do a brake test though.
CarlT100
Explorer
Jul 11, 2015
I do a visual inspection, make sure the lever is locked and pinned, and then I do a pull test. I would rather be safe than sorry. I watched a fellow in the storage lot I use drop his FW on his brand new F-350. It was his fault, he failed to make sure the hitch was locked. Had he done a pull test, He would not need a new bed for his brand new truck.
MarkTwain
Explorer
Jul 11, 2015
wilber1 wrote:
Regardless of hitch type, 99% of the time it is not a mechanical failure when this happens, it is either poor procedure or getting out of sequence due to rushing or being interrupted when hooking up or unhooking.

X1, RIGHT ON! When I am hooking up to my 5th wheel, I tell everyone and anyone to NOT talk or ask questions until I tell you its ok to talk to me:):):)
MarkTwain
Explorer
Jul 11, 2015
MNRon wrote:
korbe I'm with you, I don't understand the value of a pull test IF you visually see the jaws wrapped around the pin AND the wider pin flange below the jaws. I even painted my pin flange to make it easier to see this. I try to follow the proper process/procedure hooking up and ALWAYS visually look, but have never done a pull-test to double-check my visual check...just sayin', not recommending to others or trying to start a flame war...

Micki Bitsko says "If you do the pull test you have nothing to loose and everything to gain". Every RV technician/sales that I have talked to has always recommended doing the pull test.
RollandB
Explorer
Jul 12, 2015
My Superglide is a 3300 which I would assume is like the the current model, if it doesn't latch I know it before getting out of the truck. There is a diff inmate sound when it latches and doesn't take much to latch. I do the visual check then hook up the poser, and safety cable, then pull test, brake and light check. I'd rather deal with peace of mind than Murphys Law.
larry_barnhart
Explorer
Jul 12, 2015
Dave H M wrote:
I don't recall doing a pull test ever. I see no reason for it if the jaws have closed and locked.

I do do a brake test though.

why do a brake test they worked the last time you hit the brakes.
I know I m being silly but I would do both it is so easy.

chevman
southernsky
Explorer
Jul 12, 2015
Old Duck wrote:
My Superglide is a 3300 which I would assume is like the the current model, if it doesn't latch I know it before getting out of the truck. There is a diff inmate sound when it latches and doesn't take much to latch. I do the visual check then hook up the poser, and safety cable, then pull test, brake and light check. I'd rather deal with peace of mind than Murphys Law.

X2 Better safe then sorry
tsetsaf
Explorer III
Jul 12, 2015
Superglide is a great hitch with easy hookup and positive "clank" engagement. I hitch, visually inspect, raise the gear, and brake test.
Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Jul 12, 2015
djgarcia wrote:
MNRon wrote:
korbe I'm with you, I don't understand the value of a pull test IF you visually see the jaws wrapped around the pin AND the wider pin flange below the jaws. I even painted my pin flange to make it easier to see this. I try to follow the proper process/procedure hooking up and ALWAYS visually look, but have never done a pull-test to double-check my visual check...just sayin', not recommending to others or trying to start a flame war...

Micki Bitsko says "If you do the pull test you have nothing to loose and everything to gain". Every RV technician/sales that I have talked to has always recommended doing the pull test.

Do you really think they would tell you not to and risk a law suit?

When I had a RBW hitch I did a pull test. Made sense because you physically could not tell for a fact everything was latched.

If I had a hitch that had a color code or some other obscure method of latching I sure would do a pull test also!

Close the handle lock it and check that the plates are touching and the 1" jaws are closed. No need to do a pull test. Do a pull if you want but I do a visual test.
mileshuff
Explorer
Jul 12, 2015
The SuperGlide is nearly impossible to high-hitch, one of the more common mistakes new 5'er owners make. The capture plate on the king pin makes it unlikely that high-hitching can occur. So not sure how you could ever drop the 5'er if the hitch engaged.