I recently got a new to me Yamaha Rhino. Bought it specifically because it was short enough to fit in my 10 foot garage of my 2008 Raptor 299MP. In my first trip with the Rhino I made it to our destination just fine, but when I got home I saw that several feet of track had been pulled out of the garage floor. Fortunately, there was no interior damage to the trailer from the Rhino bouncing around.I had been using long screws into the floor and they failed. Has anyone used nuts, washers, and bolts? I know these would hold but I would have to go underneath and pull the undercarriage screening off the trailer. I would imagine I could staple it back on easy enough. Am I correct? Would this be a good, low cost, solution to the track coming loose?Thanks!

There are a couple of butterfly type fasteners that you could use that would eliminate the necessity of pulling apart the undercarriage screening. I would assume that the fasteners would not be able to hit anything underneath such as wiring, etc and damage it, since there were originally tracks fastened in that location. These are similar to a fastener used to attach items to drywall, but for wood/metal.

You're best best is to mount through the floor like you've mentioned. It's a pain but it's the best way to secure them. If you don't want to do that then you'll want to get another type of mounting system and secure through the floor and ideally into the frame if you can. E-Track is good if you use the multiple mounting points, but you have a lot more bolts to put in. You probably don't need to put them in every hole but you need to make sure that any place you put a strap is secured.

We use the e track for hauling a Harley trike and before that 2 single bikes. We have a 16" cargo trailer and our e track is bolted down through the floor every 12". Also if there was not a steel beam then a huge flat washer was also added. Never a problem but then again there is no underpinning to worry about.

I carry two buggies in my enclosed trailer. Two wheels are secured with wheel nets where one side connected to D-loop tie downs and the other side to e-track. The track sections are 5' long and secured every 5th hole with wood screws that are slightly longer than my decking.I always suggest people tie a vehicle down against the wheel, axle or outboard swing arm so the suspension can float and not fight your anchors.Determine how thick your load floor is and use screws the same length to avoid puncturing something underneath. Run screws in every hole in areas that you think will have a tie down and double the screws in other areas to helve the gap between current screws.

I would not recommend using screws alone. For me it was easy I don't have s sealed underbelly so I could get under the rig to fasten large washers and nuts on the end of 1/4" Carraige Bolts. I go about every other hole where I have a tie down strap but then every 12" My tie down points don't really change because I am hauling the same thing all the time. But if I had to move straps around, I might put bolts every 6"...

e track pulled up | Good Sam Community

mustangglp
Explorer
Nov 24, 2014
I believe he is talking about toggle bolts
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=10&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CFMQFjAJ&url=http%3A%2F%2Fen.wikipedia.org%2Fwiki%2FToggle_bolt&ei=KptzVOSKMef-sASFjYCQAw&usg=AFQjCNEaeh4T7UjaDfef8c5q2cJUprthqA&sig2=perUCiOOBiiq6qz5fmsLmw
Dirtclods
Explorer
Nov 24, 2014
Question for you are you tying down the rhino itself or only the wheels?
tjohnsen
Explorer
Nov 25, 2014
Dirtclods wrote:
Question for you are you tying down the rhino itself or only the wheels?

I was tying off of the roll cage.
Dirtclods
Explorer
Nov 25, 2014
tjohnsen wrote:
Dirtclods wrote:
Question for you are you tying down the rhino itself or only the wheels?

I was tying off of the roll cage.

Oh if you just used ATV/UTV Wheel Bonnets you'll be OK see link.

http://www.discountramps.com/atv-wheel-bonnet/p/ATV-WHL-TIE/?CAWELAID=1659556992&CAGPSPN=pla&gclid=CMSl44PNlsICFUxsfgodg6kAbg
Fishbreath
Explorer II
Nov 28, 2014
I replaced the tie-downs in my rig last year with larger D-rings. I through-bolted each one of them into the frame of the rig. Although it took some thorough measuring, it was worth the effort.
In addition to securing the rings or e-track I would recommend cross-strapping the toy in place. This will allow a little more flex in the straps.

Good luck
Bill
dvg84x
Explorer
Dec 08, 2014
If you tie off to the roll cage or frame, a big bump in the road will cause the suspension to compress, loosening the straps which will act like a Jerk strap when the Rhino rebounds.

If you tie down the tires or attach to the suspension close to the wheels, this is unlikely to happen. In my Toy Hauler or in my box trailer, I cross tie them diagonally...my e-track is attached with 1-1/4" long # 14 SS screws in every other hole - no problems so far!
dalen
Explorer
Dec 08, 2014
The protective underbelly cover is attached with screws into the frame of the 299mp you cannot staple it back on. Also under the front part of the garage floor is the fresh water holding tank and under the middle part of the floor is the 30 gal. Gas tank. You really should remove the cover to make sure you don't damage either of these. You don't have to remove the entire cover....you can remove the screws from part of it and cut the cover to move it out of the way. They make a wide tape especially for taping the cover back together. You can buy the tape at your rv dealer.
64thunderbolt
Explorer II
Dec 08, 2014
tjohnsen wrote:
I recently got a new to me Yamaha Rhino. Bought it specifically because it was short enough to fit in my 10 foot garage of my 2008 Raptor 299MP. In my first trip with the Rhino I made it to our destination just fine, but when I got home I saw that several feet of track had been pulled out of the garage floor. Fortunately, there was no interior damage to the trailer from the Rhino bouncing around.

I had been using long screws into the floor and they failed. Has anyone used nuts, washers, and bolts? I know these would hold but I would have to go underneath and pull the undercarriage screening off the trailer. I would imagine I could staple it back on easy enough. Am I correct? Would this be a good, low cost, solution to the track coming loose?

Thanks!

I through bolted mine @ every cross member and used screws in between. My Prowler came loose and punched through the maple door going into the living quarters in a prior toy hauler so when I traded trailers I bolted it @ the cross members with carriage bolts & lock washers.

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