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AFox2012's avatar
AFox2012
Explorer
Jul 08, 2017

Electric dump valves

Currently own a 2012 Arctic Fox 5th wheel with electric dump valves from Drain Master. Have had issues with the black tank valve sticking either closed or open. Tried all the recommended solutions with little success. Finally figured out what fixes my problem. Drain Master uses the same drive motor on the 3" valve as on the 1.5" valve. Smaller valves seem to work well. After age and wear & tear, the motor on the 3" valve just does not have the torque to get the blade to move reliably. I boosted the voltage driving the motor by 4.5 volts (3 D-cells in series) making the operating voltage on the motor somewhere around 17 volts. BINGO problem solved. The blade now zips open and closed under all conditions. Easy fix. Just added 3 cells in the pass thru. Motor only draws a fraction of an amp. Three D-cells will easily last a full year. If you are having issues, give this a try.
  • GON2SKI's avatar
    GON2SKI
    Explorer
    Jul 14, 2017
    I have a 2014 that came with electric valves. After having too many failures to work, I converted back to manual valves......no more troubles! Are the new units still being built with the electric valve option?
  • AFox2012's avatar
    AFox2012
    Explorer
    Jul 14, 2017
    Hi Traildust.... Just used a battery holder to series the three D-cells. Disconnected the RV positive 12 volt lead from the switch. Series the D-cells between the +12 lead and the switch. All there is to it. I mounted the battery holder in the pass-thru. AFox2012
  • Sonora108's avatar
    Sonora108
    Explorer
    Jul 14, 2017
    We have a 2013 Arctic Fox with a sticking gray2 valve. I will give this a try if I can figure out just how to wire three D-cells in series.
    Bill
    On edit, wiring the three D-cells in a series is easy, positive to negative just line them up. I do wonder how you tied the three D-cells to the switch. Just add the positive to the 12vdc positive switch lead??
  • AFox2012's avatar
    AFox2012
    Explorer
    Jul 14, 2017
    Griffy00... Hi there. Goodsam won't let me post pics. Private message me and give me your email and I'll send them to you. There 6 pics. AFox2012
  • AFox2012's avatar
    AFox2012
    Explorer
    Jul 09, 2017
    Hi Griffy00.... I am waiting for a new battery holder to arrive by mail. I am also going to put the holder in some sort of plastic container to reduce corrosion. My first install was in a hurry and far from being neat. I'll post some pics when the new parts come in.... Afox2012
  • AFox2012's avatar
    AFox2012
    Explorer
    Jul 09, 2017
    No issues with the light. Yes, I just inserted the cells in series with the +12 volt lead going to the switch. My 3" valve was somewhat slow to open. But now it operates in about 4/10 of a second. What a difference. The motor should easily stand the increase of 1/3 voltage. That gives about an 80% increase in available torque to get the blade moving. So far, no crawling under to use the wrench or pulling the entire valve to clean and lubricate. If I run into any further issues related to the voltage boost I'll be sure to post.

    Afox2012
  • griffy00's avatar
    griffy00
    Explorer
    Jul 08, 2017
    Can you provide a photo of your fix for those of us whom are not so electrically inclined?
  • azrving's avatar
    azrving
    Explorer
    Jul 08, 2017
    I think mine stay clear because of how quickly everything is sucked out at 60 miles an hour. Now that I double tow I did need a short extension so it doesn't hit my utility trailer.
  • Durb's avatar
    Durb
    Explorer
    Jul 08, 2017
    Thanks. I have the infuriating electric valves and have become expert at crawling under the trailer with a hex key to operate. Last trip the valve got stuck in the open position. So, you just wired the DC boost prior to the switch? No issues with the light that shows the valve is open?

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