Electric over hydraulic brakes

eHoefler wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:
"It is very unlikely that they need to be bleed if the resevoir is still full and there is no signs of leaking."

Have you ever owned a new DRV?

Does not really matter. Hydrualic disc brakes on anything are all about the same, they operate the same whether they are applied by foot, air or electric pump.

YES it does matter! I have owned DRV's and my 16 needed to be bled and many others have also. There is one reason, it's the LAZY people doing the job in the first place. Has NOTHING to do with the system.

Note that on my 2011 F350, the trailer brakes do not work unless the truck is going more that 5 mph. This may have changed over the newer years. The emergency brake switch on the trailer is the only way to activate the brakes.

Cummins12V98 wrote:
"It is very unlikely that they need to be bleed if the resevoir is still full and there is no signs of leaking."

Have you ever owned a new DRV?

Does not really matter. Hydrualic disc brakes on anything are all about the same, they operate the same whether they are applied by foot, air or electric pump.

"It is very unlikely that they need to be bleed if the resevoir is still full and there is no signs of leaking."

Have you ever owned a new DRV?

I have mt setting at 4.5 and still lock up the rear axle some times. Having brakes looked at next week

Since it has sat for 3 years, there is rust on the rotors that has to be removed/worn off and/or the pads need to be replaced. It is very unlikely that they need to be bleed if the resevoir is still full and there is no signs of leaking.

It's going to be a couple of weeks before I can get back to where the trailer is to deal with this. I appreciate everyone's input and ideas.
A couple of things I can comment on now though. Ford confirmed the controllers in the 2017 Super Duty trucks work with all major electric over hydraulic actuators. It was noted that the braking signal was influenced by both speed and brake pedal pressure.
This unit has sat for 3 years in storage so I can guess that bleeding the brakes is a excellent idea then trying the brakes both with the truck controller and the breakaway control and see if there is any difference. Checking the brakes with the wheels off of the ground does not give a realistic test to the brake since you have no load resistance so I will do it on the ground.
I will update after I get my hands back on it.

Thanks

One more thing you could do is to disconnect the trailer from the truck and jack up a trailer wheel. Just get it off the ground so it freely rotates. Then pull the emergency disconnect pin on the brake system. This should lock up the brakes. Then check to see if you can rotate the wheel.

You must have a good battery installed to do this.

One more thing - I have a 2013 F350 and had disc brakes added to my fiver last spring. As was explained to me by the installer, the Ford system does not send a strong signal to actuate the trailer disc brakes very much until you are moving at a much faster rate then walking or idle speed. So make sure your truck is set to the electric over hydraulic setting and then hook up and try it at about 25-30 mph, then at highway speeds. I have my gain set to 6 and that works well for me, but thinking of going to 5 to see if it's easer to modulate braking. Mine stops quickly enough if I stab the pedal that I am a little worried that the car behind me could run into me.

My truck did not need the module discussed above.

Do you even hear the pump running with the brakes applied?