Exhaust Brake

My previous trailer I had to set it to 10. Got a new 5er, heavier and it is set to around 6. Guess it all depends on the trailer. So 10 may be sort of normal...as long as it works.

memtb wrote:
CarnationSailer, Assuming that the brakes are in good working order, and your brake controller is working properly,you may be experiencing a common trait among many RV’s of today....not enough brake for the trailer. Many manufacturers put the minimum axles on their units...meaning that the brake size is likely minimum. In “yesteryear”, before the hydraulic disc brake systems becoming more popular...some of the higher end rv’s put a larger brake system on the axle: example a 7K axle would have the 8K brake assembly. We had a 2001 Teton set-up that way. Lots of braking power when needed!

Thanks for the reply. Your explanation makes good sense.

CarnationSailer, Assuming that the brakes are in good working order, and your brake controller is working properly,you may be experiencing a common trait among many RV’s of today....not enough brake for the trailer. Many manufacturers put the minimum axles on their units...meaning that the brake size is likely minimum. In “yesteryear”, before the hydraulic disc brake systems becoming more popular...some of the higher end rv’s put a larger brake system on the axle: example a 7K axle would have the 8K brake assembly. We had a 2001 Teton set-up that way. Lots of braking power when needed!

IBcarguy wrote:
Speaking of exhaust brake....I have a 2013 2500HD Duramax and the exhaust brake does little to nothing, at least that I can notice. My dealer says it's normal that if there were a problem, it would trip a code. I pull a 5th wheel and was a little disappointed with the exhaust brake. It really doesn't seem to do much. The only thing I notice is that it might downshift a little more with it on.
I set my trailer brakes at 4.5. I think the trailer brakes should be an "assist" rather than do the most of the braking on my rig.

And,I’m just the opposite.....I want the trailer brakes to be “slightly” aggressive ( not to the point of “jerking” on slow mph stops). “If” I’m on a slick (wet, snow, ice) surface, I want the trailer to attempt to “stop itself”. If the truck is doing a high percentage of the braking.....a “jacknife” is more likely. The more aggressive trailer braking.... will help keep everything in a straight line!

I use my exhaust all the time even with out the trailer. As for trailer brakes I have mine set at 5. And that exhaust brake on my 17 will keep my truck at one speed going thru the hills of virgina. We do a lot of trips to Bristol and Richmond.

MarkTwain wrote:

CarnationSailor wrote:

MarkTwain wrote:

BarneyS wrote:

Luna18 wrote:
My bad.....yes exhaust brake is on...

Trailer brake...how do you tell is its set properly??
Mine is like set on 5 or 6 currently

Thanks

See the post above yours.
Barney

Going about 20 mph, apply the brakes with the switch on your unit but not putting your foot on the truck brakes , does the trailer come to a smooth stop without skidding the tires in about 20 yds. If yes, then job done. If trailer brakes lock up and skid before you stop, lessen the setting 5.0 to 4.0 etc. If your trailer doesen't feel like it is stopping with the 20 yards the up the setting to 5.5 etc. Just takes a little trial and error.

I used this procedure 3 years ago when we got our rig. Could never get the tires to skid even when set at 10 so I left it set to 10. Seems to stop OK, but would have been more confident that it was set correctly if I could have achieved a skid then backed it down. Anyone else experience this?

I would take the trailer to a tire store like Les Schwab. Have them pull all the wheels to check all the bearings, that the brake pads are clean and have no grease on them. Then have them adjust the trailer brakes on each wheel. Also have your RV shop check to make sure the exhaust valve is fully opening and closing. I normally set my trailer brakes around 5.0. I have 3 additional settings "1,2,3" . Each provides stronger braking with #3 being the strongest. I use this if I know I am going to be going down some steep mountains.

I have taken my trailer to Les Schwab every 12 months since buying it 3 years ago. Each time they inspect and repack the wheel bearings, inspect and adjust the brakes, and rotate the tires. And I have been using a setting of 10 since Day 1.

Why do you recommend having the EB checked at my "RV shop"? I think the Chevy dealer would be a better place; however, I am super happy with the performance of the EB. And I am actually NOT unhappy with the braking of my trailer. I am just curious if I am the only one who uses a setting of 10.

azdryheat wrote:
I have the same truck but it's a 2013. The exhaust brake is either off or on. I turn mine on.

I leave my EB on all the time. Helps in saving brake wear even when driving just around down.

IBcarguy wrote:
Speaking of exhaust brake....I have a 2013 2500HD Duramax and the exhaust brake does little to nothing, at least that I can notice. My dealer says it's normal that if there were a problem, it would trip a code. I pull a 5th wheel and was a little disappointed with the exhaust brake. It really doesn't seem to do much. The only thing I notice is that it might downshift a little more with it on.
I set my trailer brakes at 4.5. I think the trailer brakes should be an "assist" rather than do the most of the braking on my rig.

When you are going down a hill, open and close the exhaust brake valve. While coasting down the hill turn the EB on and off and you feel the EB slowing you down and then when off you should feel like you are coasting and the truck will continue to pick up down hill speed. If there is no difference, take the truck into the shop to make sure the EB is fully opening and closing.

CarnationSailor wrote:

MarkTwain wrote:

BarneyS wrote:

Luna18 wrote:
My bad.....yes exhaust brake is on...

Trailer brake...how do you tell is its set properly??
Mine is like set on 5 or 6 currently

Thanks

See the post above yours.
Barney

Going about 20 mph, apply the brakes with the switch on your unit but not putting your foot on the truck brakes , does the trailer come to a smooth stop without skidding the tires in about 20 yds. If yes, then job done. If trailer brakes lock up and skid before you stop, lessen the setting 5.0 to 4.0 etc. If your trailer doesen't feel like it is stopping with the 20 yards the up the setting to 5.5 etc. Just takes a little trial and error.

I used this procedure 3 years ago when we got our rig. Could never get the tires to skid even when set at 10 so I left it set to 10. Seems to stop OK, but would have been more confident that it was set correctly if I could have achieved a skid then backed it down. Anyone else experience this?

I would take the trailer to a tire store like Les Schwab. Have them pull all the wheels to check all the bearings, that the brake pads are clean and have no grease on them. Then have them adjust the trailer brakes on each wheel. Also have your RV shop check to make sure the exhaust valve is fully opening and closing. I normally set my trailer brakes around 5.0. I have 3 additional settings "1,2,3" . Each provides stronger braking with #3 being the strongest. I use this if I know I am going to be going down some steep mountains.

Speaking of exhaust brake....I have a 2013 2500HD Duramax and the exhaust brake does little to nothing, at least that I can notice. My dealer says it's normal that if there were a problem, it would trip a code. I pull a 5th wheel and was a little disappointed with the exhaust brake. It really doesn't seem to do much. The only thing I notice is that it might downshift a little more with it on.
I set my trailer brakes at 4.5. I think the trailer brakes should be an "assist" rather than do the most of the braking on my rig.