SamKelly1965 wrote:
Novice here. Please help:
I have a few questions as we just bought a used 2008 jayco 1007 and had a frustrating first weekend.
1. If we use a hose at home (where we are on well water, not city water) in the city fill connection, my understanding is that the water will fill the hot water heater. But when the hot water heater is filled, does the water just stop running even though the water is turned on at the house where the hose is hooked up? Or will it now overflow into the fresh water tank until that is filled? If the water stops, what causes it to just stop?
On the city water connection, once your FW reaches the same pressure as the city line, water stops...or is =supposed= to. There is a check-valve that prevents back-flow into the fresh water tank. There is also a check-valve on the inlet side of the pump to prevent back-flow from the pump back into the tank. You might need to open the safety valve on the water heater to fully purge the air from the heater.
2. At the campsite this weekend, we filled the fresh water tank in the gravity fill. Once it was full and we were at the campsite, we turned on the hot water faucet to fill the hot water heater so that there would be no air in it, and turned on the pump. Five min later, the water was still gurling and spurting. Same with cold water. We were never able to get it to stop spurting. And when we turned the pump off after the faucets were closed, it was still running after five min. No water leaks anywhere, and believe me, I checked. The connection to and from the water pump seems tight. I cannot figure out why we cannot get the air out.
If the FW had been sitting, drained, for some time, it could take a while to get all the air purged from all the plumbing. As I said before, you might need to open the safety valve on the heater to fully purge it.
3. We didn't use a pressure regulator when we screwed the hose into city fill because we are on well water at home, so lower pressure. Should we still use it when at home using hose for city fill?
Your help would be appreciated. How long should it take for the tap to stop spurting once you turn the pump on and the tap on? What do we do to get this air out? My husband did not have the hot water heater turned on when we did this, but he said it shouldn't matter.
Again, if the plumbing was completely dry, it simply may take a while to purge all the air. Also, the pump may not be working correctly. Worst case is that it's sucking air from somewhere, but you'd likely have a water leak, too. I'd also check the inlet check-valve to be sure you're getting full flow into the pump. Also, your husband is wrong if he thinks that it doesn't matter if there's water in the heater if you turn it on. Absolutely, it does matter, and you can burn it up if there's no water to absorb the heat. If you heater has both gas and electric, available, the electric element will burn out in < 10 seconds if you power it up with no water in it. A pressure regulator should be standard equipment for your FW, even if it's just a fixed-pressure one. Better ones are adjustable and have a pressure gauge on them.
Lyle