Heat Pump or Not

I have a 2012 Carriage Cameo. I have a heat pump at one end and an air conditioner at the other. GET THE HEAT PUMP. It is the way to go. 5000 BTU

Doug, thank you, thank you, thank you. That's exactly the expertise I was looking for. NOW, it all makes sense why I had it set for electric heat and the furnace kicked on. I just knew that no heat ever came from the rooftop unit. I guess I was being thick-headed. You gave me clarity. Thanks again

Al

2002 Carriage came with RVP/Coleman roof top units. Doug

barberbunch wrote:
Does anyone know if any RVs with an electric heat option ever had a different set-up than a heat pump?

RV Heat Pumps started in 1999. Before that NO HP on a RV roof top unit. Prior and NOW, roof AC's have always had a HEAT STRIP option. What this is, is, a 5600 BTU 120 volt electric heat coil on top in front of the AC evaporator.
REGARDLESS, if you have a roof top HP or a roof top Heat Strip, the roof AC fan MUST run for either system to work.
The difference between a Heat Strip(5600 btu) and a HEAT PUMP is, the HEAT PUMP will have the BTU rating of the roof AC (13500 btu or 15000 btu). MORE heat capacity. BUT, HP's will NOT work below 36 to 38 degrees outside ambient temp. HEAT STRIPS will work, but they only put out warm air to take the chill off, they will NOT heat an RV.
Now, from your previous response about you NEVER had roof top air flow on your "heat" option only thru the floor vents. Carriage did not install a hybrid system. IF you had a TRUE HP before, it all depends on the BRAND of the HP. Coleman(RVP) or Dometic. Coleman roof HP's have a design quirk built into the logic. When in HP heat mode, IF you set the wall tstat MORE than 5 degrees from the inside temp of the RV, the Coleman system will activate the LP furnace and the furnace will heat the RV. Once the interior temp is LESS than 5 dgrees of that set temp of the tstat, the furnace kicks out and the roof HP comes on and heats the unit up to preset temp. Dometics do not have this design. SO, if you indeed had a HP originally and your only heat came from the LP furnace, your system has never functioned as designed.
There IS a COST difference between a HP and a COOL only roof top AC unit. HP's cost more. Doug

If they are going to charge you an extra few hundred, I would probably call it good and set that aside for several years worth of propane for the furnace.

If they are going to swap it out at no cost, sure. Better to have an extra option than not. It's a good option for spring/fall when it's cool but not bitter cold. Also, you don't typically run afoul of overloaded electrical systems like busy summer weekends.

Does anyone know if any RVs with an electric heat option ever had a different set-up than a heat pump?

If you are near full time and pay for electricity you will get 2x the BTU from a heat pump in mild conditions vs an electric heater.
Could add convenience to use electric instead of propane that needs to be refilled.
Might be a worthwhile upgrade if the swap is quick and easy.

That's good advice. I guess my question was more of a technical one. I'm not convinced it ever had a heat pump to start with. I do know it has an electric heat option on the thermostat, but I've never had heat coming from the the ceiling vents. It comes from the floor vents in LP and electric mode. Thanks.

Al Barber

Depending on how far north you live and use, the heat pump will only work down to around 38-40 degrees. I’d save the hassle and get a good electric heater to take the chill off and use the furnace only when necessary.