Hot water heater propane not igniting and staying kit

Burn mark it is. Thanks everyone for your help.

Dirtclods wrote:
Also check your propane tank it might be almost empty as well?

It's not. I switched over to my full tank for an extra measure


I did get in contact with our dealer. They said they've had issues with the control panel. Pull it off and check for burn marks. If that's the case, might have a problem solved.

Also check your propane tank it might be almost empty as well?

dedmiston wrote:

Ralph Cramden wrote:
After a hard wind driven rain, water can blow inside the heater through the vents and cause a short between the electrode and ground. It does not take much. It will throw the DSI fault LED on and require a reset.

He's in Southern California. I don't think we've ever had a hard wind driven rain here, at least not in recent years.

LOL.....no rain at all?

Towing in even a light rain turns into a hard wind driven rain as soon as you hit about 30 MPH, even in southern CA. The steel door on water heaters is not exactly water tight as well, and it does not take much moisture to ground out the electrode for the dsi. It fixes itself once you do get it to fire regardless if it's moisture.

theoldwizard1 wrote:

sin cal hd wrote:
I can hear the igniter click and smell propane. I was able to light with a bic lighter. It shuts off after a few seconds. I only get it to flow the propane after I run water a few seconds, almost sensing low water to reheat again.

First, it is not sensing "low water", it is sensing COLD water !

Second, I have been fighting with a water heater that works "most of the time". Mine has a light by the power switch inside. If the light is on, the burner did not re-light. (In my case, if I cycle the power switch inside it will light the burner the second time.)

If you can see the sparker sparking and you smell gas you should be more than half way there !

These water heaters have MULTIPLE safety systems built in. The primary is the 2 thermostatic switches. They are usually behind a piece of sticky foam tape. Remove the switches and clean the face of the switches with a Scotch-Brite. Also clean the side of the tank that these switches are touching. Because you are getting propane these are must likely working properly.

There is also a "flame sensor" built in to the end of the sparker. It is does not "sense" a flame within 10-15 seconds after turning on the gas, it will turn it off and light the fault light inside.

I understand it senses cold. I have to drain the hot side for it to sense new water in the tank. That's when it'll click and release propane, but not ignite.

dedmiston wrote:

Ralph Cramden wrote:
After a hard wind driven rain, water can blow inside the heater through the vents and cause a short between the electrode and ground. It does not take much. It will throw the DSI fault LED on and require a reset.

He's in Southern California. I don't think we've ever had a hard wind driven rain here, at least not in recent years.

Actually I'm in Sintral Cali.:)

Oops

Ralph Cramden wrote:
After a hard wind driven rain, water can blow inside the heater through the vents and cause a short between the electrode and ground. It does not take much. It will throw the DSI fault LED on and require a reset.

He's in Southern California. I don't think we've ever had a hard wind driven rain here, at least not in recent years.

I just found these three videos

How Your Suburban RV Water Heater Works

RV Hot Water Heater Maintenance Suburban SW6DE

Suburban RV water heater trips Limit Switches. Element testing and troubleshooting

sin cal hd wrote:
I can hear the igniter click and smell propane. I was able to light with a bic lighter. It shuts off after a few seconds. I only get it to flow the propane after I run water a few seconds, almost sensing low water to reheat again.

First, it is not sensing "low water", it is sensing COLD water !

Second, I have been fighting with a water heater that works "most of the time". Mine has a light by the power switch inside. If the light is on, the burner did not re-light. (In my case, if I cycle the power switch inside it will light the burner the second time.)

If you can see the sparker sparking and you smell gas you should be more than half way there !

These water heaters have MULTIPLE safety systems built in. The primary is the 2 thermostatic switches. They are usually behind a piece of sticky foam tape. Remove the switches and clean the face of the switches with a Scotch-Brite. Also clean the side of the tank that these switches are touching. Because you are getting propane these are must likely working properly.

There is also a "flame sensor" built in to the end of the sparker. It is does not "sense" a flame within 10-15 seconds after turning on the gas, it will turn it off and light the fault light inside.