It's time for me to do maintenance on our 2003 Trail lite 5th wheel. It has tandem Dexter axles. I'd really like to be able to lift the entire trailer so that I can do all the wheel maintenance at once (and possibly live in it while this is going on... we are full timers). Can anyone point me in the direction of how such things are done? I'm specifically looking for blocking strategies. How many sets? Where? I'm figuring the landing legs for one side and a bottle jack to lift the axle's off the ground?Just starting to research how to go about this. Would like to know how to lift this trailer without damaging it.Thanks in advance for your input!

Hook to truck. Raise legs. Put jack under frame in front of front axle. Jack up until both sets of tires on same same are off the ground. If temporary, place weight rated jack stands under frame before and after each axle. If long term, make some cribbing or use cement blocks or 2'x8"x8"blocks of wood IPO cement ones in same area. Repeat for other side. Make sure you are level side to side 1st. Once done in back, lower front legs, unhook and level front to rear.

Ony one comment. The small head on a bottle jack if placed directly on the axle could collapse the thin wall tubing used.

Well take your time and build up some "cribbing" to support, I have used 2X4's cut into 1' lengths. Many make the wood lengths 18", I have found the 12" stable enough.I actually jack at the equalizer between the wheels, and place cribbing under the jack as the 5er get higher. While the landing gear will support the front, I placed a 3 ton jack stand under each. I also DON'T connect the 5er to the truck, on the 12" cribbing I can put a hard shoulder to the ends of the 5er and it doesn't move.

Cribbing, and jack stands, keep the rig level, fron to back as well as side to side. Never ever get under rig with stabilizers only! Take your time, and as stated use a wooden block to spread the load on the frame, it can bend if all the weight is concentrated in one spot! Last Sumer I inspected/cleaned brakes and replaced inner seals on my rig. I did one wheel at a time, about ½ hour per wheel. Did one side the first day, the other side on the second day. Not a big deal, again don't get into a hurry or try any short cuts! Good luck!

Good post by rhagfo with pictures.OP...If you are only doing wheel maintenance, bearings/brakes, I'd just raise one wheel at a time, with a block & jack under the u-bolt area. Unless you are doing suspension disassembly, that is a lot of work, blocking up entire frame, and more risky while living in it.Jerry

Jacking up a 5th wheel | Good Sam Community

13 Replies

rhagfo
Explorer III
Mar 22, 2017
Well take your time and build up some "cribbing" to support, I have used 2X4's cut into 1' lengths. Many make the wood lengths 18", I have found the 12" stable enough.
I actually jack at the equalizer between the wheels, and place cribbing under the jack as the 5er get higher. While the landing gear will support the front, I placed a 3 ton jack stand under each. I also DON'T connect the 5er to the truck, on the 12" cribbing I can put a hard shoulder to the ends of the 5er and it doesn't move.
avvidclif1
Explorer
Mar 22, 2017
Ony one comment. The small head on a bottle jack if placed directly on the axle could collapse the thin wall tubing used.
ACZL
Explorer
Mar 22, 2017
Hook to truck. Raise legs. Put jack under frame in front of front axle. Jack up until both sets of tires on same same are off the ground. If temporary, place weight rated jack stands under frame before and after each axle. If long term, make some cribbing or use cement blocks or 2'x8"x8"blocks of wood IPO cement ones in same area. Repeat for other side. Make sure you are level side to side 1st. Once done in back, lower front legs, unhook and level front to rear.

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Jacking up a 5th wheel

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