Level 5th wheel

tralbos wrote:
Hey guys, Is my new to me fifth Wheel too "Nose High"??? 2005 Forest River Wildwood 245BHSS
I have one size larger tires and a front level kit on my 2015 Ram 2500 Megacab that makes my truck taller than stock. Pulled it home about 60 miles with no issues.

If you are at 6” at the bed rails I would be looking at options to raise the 5er.
I believe the best way to see how much you need to raise the 5er at the axles.
Find a level paved area large enough to disconnect the TV and move forward.
With 5er attached and on the level surface measure the distance from the ground to the top of the bed rail at the pin location add to this 6” or your desired clearance to the bed fair,call this Measurement 1.
Now without moving the 5er disconnect it and level it so it is sitting perfectly level. Now measure the distance from the bottom of the upper area to the ground call this measurement 2,
Now math time measurement 1 - measurement 2 = how much lift needed at 5er axles to tow level.

Hey guys, Is my new to me fifth Wheel too "Nose High"??? 2005 Forest River Wildwood 245BHSS
I have one size larger tires and a front level kit on my 2015 Ram 2500 Megacab that makes my truck taller than stock. Pulled it home about 60 miles with no issues.

I'm taken my 5'er in next month so I might have them to look at my fridge, man my wife was not an happy camper when we lost most of ours food, not good for me.

JKJavelin wrote:
I've been visiting on this site almost a year now, but I don't think I've ever seen it clarified: When someone says they're nose high by 2" for example, I assume they mean the nose (front end of the box) is 2" higher than the fulcrum--the spot between the axels. That would make the nose about 4" higher than the rear end, correct?
I suspect some people would call this condition 4" high.
JK

No...should be a measurement from front frame by jacks, to rear frame by bumper.

JKJavelin wrote:
I've been visiting on this site almost a year now, but I don't think I've ever seen it clarified: When someone says they're nose high by 2" for example, I assume they mean the nose (front end of the box) is 2" higher than the fulcrum--the spot between the axels. That would make the nose about 4" higher than the rear end, correct?
I suspect some people would call this condition 4" high.
JK

Not sure, but I think you might be over-thinking that.

To me, 2" high means two inches higher than level. If you lower the hitch by two inches or raise the pin by two inches, you'll be level.

I've been visiting on this site almost a year now, but I don't think I've ever seen it clarified: When someone says they're nose high by 2" for example, I assume they mean the nose (front end of the box) is 2" higher than the fulcrum--the spot between the axels. That would make the nose about 4" higher than the rear end, correct?
I suspect some people would call this condition 4" high.
JK

You have other problems with your fridge

You're not that much off level, so your fridge should be cooling well. When we first got our FW, I set the fridge to a 2 or 3 thinking that that was the coldest setting. Turns out that setting is 1 - 5 with 5 being the coldest setting. User error!

Look in your fridges owner manual to see how level it has to be. 3 degrees would allow you 5 inches off level for every 8 feet.

Yes sir and thanks I have to take it in for my shake down warranty next month and I was thinking on having them to bring the box up on notch. The whole trip to and from Las Vegas in the first and second pics we was having trouble with ours refrigerator not getting cold because it was not level.


The second pics I didn't put the wheel on those lego blocks so our refrigertor was not too cold but I started doing it and it was working pretty good, the wife did not like that because we lost a lot of food.


Also in the second pics we didn't unhook because we was going to be there just one night so to save us time I just let the jacks down to take some of the weight off. Thank you for your comment.