Leveling Side to Side

Atom Ant and WeBeFulltimers have the answer. I can have water and cable hooked up by the time my rig level's out. (OK, at least water). But it's a retro-fit on older model's or option (I guess), on new ones.

We camp in a lot of spots that may require digging one side down if allowable and block up the other. Its not just simply add a certain board thickness. Ramps have to be made from different size boards to get level and pull or back the rigs tires on. Then I drop the front landing gear and rear stabilizers.

I have taken the wheels off the door side to get level on a two week stay. I'm equipped to do that and that trip was fantastic/no crowds or barking dogs. A dream trip.

If we can't dig one side down that means blocking up one side even higher. Yeah I carry lots of lumber. My favorite is a pair of 4" thick x 10" wide cedar block around 30" long I chainsawed a drive on slope on one end so the tire rolls easily up on it. It also can be turned over for a tall ramp.

Now if your staying in RV parks or newer campgrounds with leveled/flat parking sites then the process is much simplified as others have pointed out.

One of my fondest RVing memories is the day I disposed of ALL my leveling boards the day after getting the new fiver with the Lippert 6 Point Leveling system!

Ezbagr wrote:
Just maybe the OP is a first timer and really does not understand what you are all telling him, I will give my 2 cents.
When leveling a trailer you need to level side to side first-you do this by getting in your camping spot and check your side to side level-then determine if you are good or need to raise one side-if you need to raise one side you will need something to put under the low side tires-boards, lynx blocks,etc.Now that you have side to side level you can chock tires and unhook and then you can level front to rear with front landing jack-after leveling front to rear now you can put down your rear stabilizer jacks.

Agreed - for the OP, here's a page that I wrote up for my sister after watching her boyfriend crank the stabilizers with an impact drill until he achieved level:
RV Leveling is Quick & Easy

Just maybe the OP is a first timer and really does not understand what you are all telling him, I will give my 2 cents.
When leveling a trailer you need to level side to side first-you do this by getting in your camping spot and check your side to side level-then determine if you are good or need to raise one side-if you need to raise one side you will need something to put under the low side tires-boards, lynx blocks,etc.Now that you have side to side level you can chock tires and unhook and then you can level front to rear with front landing jack-after leveling front to rear now you can put down your rear stabilizer jacks.

whoah, it is more complicated than that. :W

At my daughter's house, I dig the right side wheels down. That puts the steps lower to the ground and the loose gravel fills in nicely when i get ready to leave.

Why do folk keep saying the same thing over an over. Leveling ain't rocket science. A few boards and done. Capiche?

Allworth wrote:
I think you are trying to pick fly specks out of the pepper.

Relax and enjoy the journey.

Ditto!:B

I carry two 2x8s about 6' long. Depending on how much leveling I need I may have on the low side one wheel on one board, two wheels on one board, one wheel on one board and one wheel on two boards (stacked), or two wheels on both boards (stacked). Have never needed more than that.
Each board has a 45 degree angle cut on the end.

I carry a selection of 1" and 2" treated boards with a 45 deg angle cut on one end. I have a 5th wheel and when the trailer is in it's spot I check the large bubble level on the tongue. A short mark is 1" board and a long mark is a 2" board. Pull slightly forward (or backwards) and place the blocks and pull the trailer on them. Put the X-Chocks between the wheels (both sides) and a plastic chock behind (or in front) of the tires not on the boards. drop the landing gear and check the front to back. If more than 1/2 a bubble off either way (especially high in the front) I know there won't be enough travel in the gear to drop the front down to level so I raise the pin point on the landing gear 1 hole above that normal "lock-in" spot to allow more downward movement of the front of the trailer. If the other way I have some 4"x6" blocks. I use those on the back also so the rear doesn't have to go down as far. The further it goes down the closer the pads are to each other and the more unstable. No I haven't invested in JT Strongarms yet.

It takes longer to describe it than to do it.