need advice on adding blocks above the axles on the camper to level it - concerned about back bumper dragging on camper or refrigerator not working right at this angle . . . what have others done with this problem? if adding blocks how much can you add without problems - we plan on driving to alaska in 5 years with this rig

michigancougar wrote:need advice on adding blocks above the axles on the camper to level it - concerned about back bumper dragging on camper or refrigerator not working right at this angle . . . what have others done with this problem? if adding blocks how much can you add without problems - we plan on driving to alaska in 5 years with this rigFirst, are the springs over, or under the axles. You'll gain about 4" if you "flip" the axles (mount the springs above the axle tube). You can gain another ~2" if you install a Correct Track axle alignment system. Beyond that, to do a =proper= job, you're looking at adding a sub-frame under the main frame, and a couple feet longer than the spring shackles. Most good shops will cross-brace this at the shackles, too. That's in an extreme case, though. Most people also have to add a 4-step entry step since they're so high. FWIW, my springs are under my axles and I tow about 3" nose high. Never even come close to scraping the bumper. Also, you'll gain some bed clearance, which is equally important. Post some pics of your suspension, and you'll get more advise.Lyle

Looks like you might have 12 inches of clearance on your truck rails. I would lower that to about 6 inches and that might make enough difference...Had the same rig and that was how I lowered my front. Good Luck

thanks, the pin box is all the way up - axles are already under the springs - I will measure next time it is hooked up but gussing only about 6" max on bed to camper clearance .is the 2" that the correct track set up be worth the effort?

I had a subframe added from a local welding shop. Here is what it looks like:

Since the axles are under the springs you will gain the 4" or so as stated above.If needed you can then change over to the Correct-Trak system to gain the other 2".

lifting camper | Good Sam Community

JIMNLIN
Explorer III
Jan 17, 2015
I would watch the thin I beam main frame for cracking/bending next to where the old spring hangers are welded. That is a very high stress area now.
If thats the case he may have to box the I beam in the spring hanger area.
Good looking welds and job.
dezl_dr
Explorer
Jan 17, 2015
The first setup they welded across the ends of the subframe. That's not a great idea. You should never weld across a frame flange.
If you look at how the factory adds tubing to the bottom of an ibeam, it's stitch welded down each side. That lets it flex without creating a stress point.
The second why looks better buy an xbrace between them and stitch welds the sides would certainly help.

I added some tubing to an rv years ago, 1.5 inch square. Stitch welded the sides and reattached the hangers. tow another 7 years or so and it was fine.

But we all know rv frames never crack or have trouble anyway right?
AZ_T_T
Explorer
Jan 17, 2015
Here are some photos of my subframe. I had it done 3 1/2 years ago.

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