Lifting the 5er

On tandem, tridem, and any multi-axle trailer, the tires, springs, and all axle to frame attachment points go through tremendous side forces when making sharp turns, or any turns, that a single axle trailer or single rear axle truck does not go through.

JIMNLIN wrote:

People have been using lift blocks for years in trucks with live powered axles...heck your dually and 3/4 ton truck probably has them from the factory that a lot of people overload daily. I've even seen multiple stacked blocks on 4x4s,

A truck with the axles at the corners vs the trailer with close spaced axles in the center of a heavy vehicle is apples vs oranges.

They say the shop wouldn't do the work to install lift blocks without a liability sign off...what about the tire shops that won't use LT tires on a trailer that ST tires came on from the factory...obviously some think the tire shops don't know what their talking about and use LT tires anyway so where's the liability there!

Tire shops/liability ??? The OP didn't ask anything about tires that I saw.
What the big rig spring shop was saying is lift blocks on a trailer isn't recommended because of increased "side stress" issues with the longer U bolts something a trucks suspension doesn't have any where near that type of side stress.

X2

While turning, the pivot point is a spot centered between the four tires so there is a twisting force on all tires.

People have been using lift blocks for years in trucks with live powered axles...heck your dually and 3/4 ton truck probably has them from the factory that a lot of people overload daily. I've even seen multiple stacked blocks on 4x4s,

A truck with the axles at the corners vs the trailer with close spaced axles in the center of a heavy vehicle is apples vs oranges.

They say the shop wouldn't do the work to install lift blocks without a liability sign off...what about the tire shops that won't use LT tires on a trailer that ST tires came on from the factory...obviously some think the tire shops don't know what their talking about and use LT tires anyway so where's the liability there!

Tire shops/liability ??? The OP didn't ask anything about tires that I saw.
What the big rig spring shop was saying is lift blocks on a trailer isn't recommended because of increased "side stress" issues with the longer U bolts something a trucks suspension doesn't have any where near that type of side stress.

Sorry but I don't get caught up in all the hype about HAVING to use a subframe to raise an RV just a couple inches...if OP needed 3 or more inches then yes I agree that would be the way to go. People have been using lift blocks for years in trucks with live powered axles...heck your dually and 3/4 ton truck probably has them from the factory that a lot of people overload daily. I've even seen multiple stacked blocks on 4x4s, so with that being said, I'm not afraid of using up to a 2" lift block on a fifth wheel trailer and I'll tow it with confidence anywhere most will tow theirs. Ultimately its up to the OP on what he feels comfortable with and what he is willing/or can pay to be perfectly level. Two to four inches out of level in a 30ft plus camper really isn't anything to stress about in my opinion. They say the shop wouldn't do the work to install lift blocks without a liability sign off...what about the tire shops that won't use LT tires on a trailer that ST tires came on from the factory...obviously some think the tire shops don't know what their talking about and use LT tires anyway so where's the liability there!

A subframe between the springs and trailer frame is needed to do what you are seeking to do. Full subframe with cross members, will keep the trailer frame from flexing side to side with additional torque of the springs mounted lower below the frame.

Axle and trailer mfg don't come with suspension blocks nor are they a option on std leaf spring suspension
I've lost my email answer from American Rockwell axles. They and Dexter have said they don't recommend their use on their axles.
Even big rig trailer shops in this area wouldn't add blocks over 1" on these type of trailers. Anything over 1" they over sized the U bolts with special alloy made for this application/thicker top plate thickness and heavier spring keepers..... and they wanted me to sign a liability disclaimer.
I refused.

On this particular trailer I needed 2" so they cut the spring hangers off and added 3/8" x 4" wide x 12" long steel plate with two sets of holes. The frame is a stacked tube type and works well with welding the longer spring hangers.

The safest way is a sub frame made from steel tubing welded to the trailers main frame rails if over a couple of inches.

WTP-GC wrote:
Despite all adjustments that we've made with the hitch (in its lowest position) and the pinbox (in its highest position), we're still towing a little nose-high. The weight distribution of our 5er is a little different than comparable units, because it has the water tank and "garage compartment" in the back, so we still get some chucking depsite our Mor-Ryde pinbox. I think that lifting the rig a few inches will help out quite a bit.

The axles are already underneath the springs, and we have no adjustment in the spring hangers. I've read that blocks are probably not the best option, but you know about things you read on the internet...

I haven't been able to locate any suspension-raising type components suitable for our application, but maybe I'm just not looking in the right places. I like the looks of the Mor-Ryde spring hanger device, but it doesn't indicate that you're going to gain any height.

Any product advice would be helpful.

I've had 2" blocks in both my toy haulers for a couple years now with no issues. I just recommend installing heavier u-bolts if you decide to use blocks. Go up at least one size if not 2 sizes, for example if you currently have 1/2" diameter u-bolts go with 9/16" or even 5/8", either one will work you just have to get new tie plates for the size u-bolt you get.

WTP-GC wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Check out this axle alignment kit.........added benefit it raises trailer 2"

LINK

Funny thing is that I've seen this product before but did not realize it would raise it 2". Thanks for sharing!

Yes these kits will add 2" lift and allow alignment of the axles.

To determine how high to raise do the following.

1. Find a place that is level front to rear and mostly level side to side.

2. pull on to the level site with the 5er in tow.

3. Measure height to the bed rail at the location of the hitch pin. Then add to this the desired distance between the 5er and the bed rail (Usually 6"). Call this Measurement1.

4. Now chock the 5er wheels and drop the landing gear and disconnect the 5er from the TV, and pull the TV clear of the 5er.

5. Now level the 5er and measure from the ground to the underside of the 5er at the hitch pin location. Call this Measurement2.

6.. Now math time, Measurement1 - Measurement2 = amount the 5er needs to be raised at the axles.

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Check out this axle alignment kit.........added benefit it raises trailer 2"

LINK

Funny thing is that I've seen this product before but did not realize it would raise it 2". Thanks for sharing!

Others above have some good solutions. I wanted to add, that towing slightly nose high is normally not an issue. I agree with you, in your case, with extra weight behind the axles, may lead to your chucking issues. I think you would notice an improvement with a level tow.

Jerry