Forum Discussion

MrVan's avatar
MrVan
Explorer
May 07, 2014

Lost Hot water pressure

On our last trip on the return side the water pump quit providing adequate pressure even though it ran normally, but would never shut off. Finally got around to trying to figure out what is going on. tried the pump again at home and noticed I wasn't getting any pressure at all on the hot side and very low pressure on the cold side and the pump never quit running. Decided to drain the suburban water heater, pulled the anode which was completely used up and a whole lot of the white residue was in the tank. Flushed the tank several times as best I could, got a lot of white stuff out, way more than normal. This anode has been in there for 5 months of continuous use in AZ before the last trip home. The RV has been hooked up to city water for 5 months prior to the return trip. Ok, cleaned the anode up and re-installed it and hooked up to city water again and waited for the water heater to fill back up. Still no hot water pressure but normal cold water pressure. Disconnected the city water and tried the pump. Pump wouldn't even turn on???? That is weird. Hooked back up to city water and tried the pump just out of curiosity and it ran again. Now that is really weird. But the bottom line I'm not getting any hot water pressure either with the pump or from the City water connection but decent cold water pressure with both the pump and the city water connection.

I'm offering all this information even though some of it doesn't make any sense yet. My present guess is some of the white residue off of the Anode has plugged the out hot water line somewhere. I have no idea how this 2006 Keystone/Montana 3400RL is plumbed but my thinking is it must be plugged on the outlet side of the water heater feeding all the hot water taps. I don't know if I have two problems or just one. I don't understand why the pump doesn't shut off even if one pipe is plugged somewhere. I've initially tried to blow air pressure back through the hot water side of the kitchen sink faucet but that hasn't helped. I didn't seem to get any relief blowing backwards which I kind of expected and that confuses me. I expected that air pressure to show up in the water heater. Ran out of daylight. I think I will try putting back air pressure from the two other hot water taps as well to see if that unplugs the main line from the water heater that must feed all three hot water faucets. Am I correct that the 12V pump just feeds cold water pressure to the water heater similar to the city water connection and the hot water gets to the three hot water faucets the same way no matter whether I'm on the pump or the city water connection? I would think it would have to be plumbed that way. I suppose I could have a broken hot water line but I don't see or hear water running when all faucets are turned off and none coming out from the bottom of the RV. Is my thinking correct that this has to be caused by a broken, plugged or twisted Pex line from the water heater to the three faucets? Looking for other hints and tips on how to isolate this further. Not going to try to troubleshoot the water pump further until I get the hot water running properly on the city water connection. The two problems may be being caused by one issue but It doesn't make sense to me yet. Any tips or hints would be appreciated. Help???
  • bluck wrote:
    I have had something similar a couple of times. The first time it was the backfeed valve in the city water fill had hung in the open position. When the pump was turned on when we were boondocking it back fed and shot a 15 ft. stream of water out of the hook up. The other time was when I had drained the waterheater And had opened the pressure relief valve to drain the water faster. I forgot to return the valve to the normal position. Same thing when the pump was turned on it pumped the water out the pressure relief valve. Both times I had a small ammount of pressure.


    If I have understood your comments properly neither one apply to my situation. The city water supply has been connected at all time but turned off and on as needed. And the pressure relief valve was always closed in these recent tests. Did I not understand what you were stating?
  • I have had something similar a couple of times. The first time it was the backfeed valve in the city water fill had hung in the open position. When the pump was turned on when we were boondocking it back fed and shot a 15 ft. stream of water out of the hook up. The other time was when I had drained the waterheater And had opened the pressure relief valve to drain the water faster. I forgot to return the valve to the normal position. Same thing when the pump was turned on it pumped the water out the pressure relief valve. Both times I had a small ammount of pressure.
  • Ok, I've now tested the water system by turning the valve that is supposed to bypass the water heater for winterizing. I'm now completely confused. Even with the valve in winterizing mode water is going to the water heater. But.... once the water heater fills I now have equal pressure in all faucets both the hot and cold side. Ok, I kind of expected that but here is a real confusing other situation. I now have turned the winterizing valve back off so that water is supposed to go to the water heater and I now have equal pressure on both the cold and hot faucet positions. That is new and occurred after I switched the by pass valve one time. That is really confusing. And... the water pump no longer turns on. The switch lights up but the pump doesn't run. This is got to be telling me something but I sure don't know what yet. Guess .... the pump thinks there is adequate pressure so it doesn't come on. need yo release some pressure when the city supply isn't on and see what happens. But why is water getting to the water heater when I have the valve in by-pass mode? Coming in backwards??? This thing doesn't make sense yet.
  • I have done a search on "no Hot Water" here on RV.Net and one of the threads talks about a one-way valve either on the inlet or outlet side of the water heater that may have failed or is plugged. I don't know if I have one of those or on which side but that causes me to think changing the valve to bypass the water heater might give me some results that might lead me in the right direction. Any Montana 3400RL owners know if I have a one-way valve and whether it is on the inlet or outlet side of the water heater?
  • Jim-Linda wrote:
    My only question.. if the anode was completely used up(in your words), why in the world would you "clean it up" and re-install it?

    Jim


    Because I don't have a new replacement anode to use right now while testing the system.
  • midnightsadie wrote:
    might try cleaning the strainer on the end of the faucet.


    Two sink faucets and the shower faucet do not get any hot water. I have removed the strainer on the end of the faucet in the kitchen. That isn't the problem. The cold water side works well out of each faucet.
  • midnightsadie wrote:
    might try cleaning the strainer on the end of the faucet.


    I would think if the faucet strainer was clogged, it would restrict cold water also. He said he has good cold water pressure.
  • My only question.. if the anode was completely used up(in your words), why in the world would you "clean it up" and re-install it?

    Jim