Pin Box Question

Ryanjb01 wrote:
My decision was based on what I have heard from others for many years about the pull rite hitch. When the sales man mentioned it I remembered many conversations had about the pull rite. It is a much tighter fit to the king pin. It just made since to me. I know I can get 1/4" or more play on my Reese in vertices movement. The pull rite is only that of a business card.

I don't know. But I hope the combination eliminates the chucking. I've also heard great things about the more ryde pin box. My brother has it on his Montana.

Time will tell.

Maybe it a mistake, but as mentioned before, different results with the same equipment.

I will install the hitch as soon as it comes in. It uses the same rail kit. If I have time, I will swap the king pin at the same time. If not I'll replace it during the trip. The salesman could have just as easily sold me the flex air pin box. He actually told me the more ride wouldn't be necessary. He said a better quality hitch makes a world of difference. It all made sense to me.



Stay tuned.

The tighter the connection between the truck and trailer, which your salesman said a PullRite would give, if real, would actually INCREASE chucking. The idea is to buffer the connection between the truck and trailer, not to make it tighter. The truck and trailer, going down the road, are two large heavy masses doing different things at different times because the are on a different piece of road. The push/pull they have on each other is what causes chucking. Isolating the two from each other is what cures said chucking. I wish you luck with your cure. I hope I'm wrong. However, in reading for a long time on this and many other forums and trying many solutions myself, there are only two cures. The first is much more expensive. It would be to greatly enhance the trailer's suspension to stop the amount of movement the trailer has and is transferring to the truck. The second is to buffer the connection (IE: make looser) between the tow vehicle and the trailer.