Poliglow Prep for oxidation

this is why I like poi glow



chevman

larry barnhart wrote:

cummins2014 wrote:

larry barnhart wrote:
I am doing a strip and redone on our 35 ft alpenlite using poli glow. After 2 to 3 times a year waxing our 2001 fifth I decided to strip the wax so using bar keepers and TSP and dish soap and a brush to clean every screw holding the trim The finish was flat and no wax. This was a long process as I wasn't going to stop until I knew it was a great job. Poli glow for many 5 years. Stripping is not hard to do but a slow job. Poli glow allows us to enter a 10 year rule rv resort because of how nice it looks.


Most rv'rs pay to have their rv's washed and waxed during the winter but I never felt I wanted that after a bum job once.


chevman

You are the exception to using poli glow, I had never seen a real good job done using that stuff, ya its shinny , but you can always see the streaks on any that I have seen done. I used it on my front cap, and it was shinny , but depending on the time of day, it just didn't look right.

Ron I never wanted to give any impressions of how ours look because at a full hit from the sun in the morning at same around 5:pm when again the sun hits a direct hit I see how I applied the product. I can't find a way to change this but a wax job has issues also and I like the easier poli glow. I might get the pass side stripped tomorrow and Done on Monday I have not seen any rv look perfect at all times but paint is the best look. We will be going south in later October but if we had a few more years I would paint the alpenlite. Wife doing well after foot surgery.

chevman

Thanks for the reply, but you probably have me mixed up with Cummins12V98, I am not Ron , he wouldn't be putting any poli glow on his perfect fifth wheel :) But if you want to refer to me by my first name ,its Greg

N-Trouble wrote:
Sounds like paint is the way to go.

For those that have had it done what did it run? Does the cap have to be removed? I imagine most body shops cant fit a 5er in their paint booth.

Look for a big truck bodyshop. They usually have big paint booth although I did have the rear of my last fiver done at a Maaco shop. Turned out nice for around $1,000. It will pay to shop around. If your trailer isn't real old the factory may help out $$. Cap doesn't need to be removed but if it was then most any bodyshop could paint it probably for less money.



B.O.

cummins2014 wrote:

larry barnhart wrote:
I am doing a strip and redone on our 35 ft alpenlite using poli glow. After 2 to 3 times a year waxing our 2001 fifth I decided to strip the wax so using bar keepers and TSP and dish soap and a brush to clean every screw holding the trim The finish was flat and no wax. This was a long process as I wasn't going to stop until I knew it was a great job. Poli glow for many 5 years. Stripping is not hard to do but a slow job. Poli glow allows us to enter a 10 year rule rv resort because of how nice it looks.


Most rv'rs pay to have their rv's washed and waxed during the winter but I never felt I wanted that after a bum job once.


chevman

You are the exception to using poli glow, I had never seen a real good job done using that stuff, ya its shinny , but you can always see the streaks on any that I have seen done. I used it on my front cap, and it was shinny , but depending on the time of day, it just didn't look right.

Ron I never wanted to give any impressions of how ours look because at a full hit from the sun in the morning at same around 5:pm when again the sun hits a direct hit I see how I applied the product. I can't find a way to change this but a wax job has issues also and I like the easier poli glow. I might get the pass side stripped tomorrow and Done on Monday I have not seen any rv look perfect at all times but paint is the best look. We will be going south in later October but if we had a few more years I would paint the alpenlite. Wife doing well after foot surgery.

chevman

Dave5143 wrote:
May I suggest Meguiers M4916 Oxidation Remover ? It seemed to work well for me. Follow it up with wax or sealer.

This works fine on fiberglass boats!! Follow up with a coat of Meguiers Flagship Wax and it will last a while.

Sounds like paint is the way to go.

For those that have had it done what did it run? Does the cap have to be removed? I imagine most body shops cant fit a 5er in their paint booth.

I am redoing our fifth. Stripping the poli glow is easier that waxing. Slow process but not hard. what was hard was stripping the wax build after many years of 2 or 3 application.
chevman

larry barnhart wrote:
I am doing a strip and redone on our 35 ft alpenlite using poli glow. After 2 to 3 times a year waxing our 2001 fifth I decided to strip the wax so using bar keepers and TSP and dish soap and a brush to clean every screw holding the trim The finish was flat and no wax. This was a long process as I wasn't going to stop until I knew it was a great job. Poli glow for many 5 years. Stripping is not hard to do but a slow job. Poli glow allows us to enter a 10 year rule rv resort because of how nice it looks.


Most rv'rs pay to have their rv's washed and waxed during the winter but I never felt I wanted that after a bum job once.


chevman

You are the exception to using poli glow, I had never seen a real good job done using that stuff, ya its shinny , but you can always see the streaks on any that I have seen done. I used it on my front cap, and it was shinny , but depending on the time of day, it just didn't look right.

No more polyglow for me it last 2-3 years and then back to no shine.And then is hard work to take it off.

TxGearhead wrote:

jjj wrote:
I used bars keeper friend to remove lots of oxidation. Then follow with a good wax. It worked pretty good. You will never get that full shine again. You will still have to keep doing this year after year unless you wax it every 3 months or so. Mine is 12 years old and one side always in the sun it fights me every year. The other side is always shaded and still has all its graphics but had to remove all faded and cracked graphics from front driver side and rear and fight oxidation all the time.

^^How did you use the Barkeepers Friend? By hand with damp cloth, or with a random orbit? What kind of pad?

I have used this method with Bar Keepers Friend only. Long tedious work but only needed to do the front cap. I used a 3M Scotch Brite pad. They have several grades. Some of them are non-scratch. You must be sure you have all the residual off. Followed by Meguiers Flagship Marine Polish and dual action buffer. 3M also makes a good Marine wax.