Possible frame weld broken on new Montana
Hi guys. Our new Montana was delivered in April and last week while unhitching the unit at home, I noticed the side- nose wall of the camper had broken the silicon bead at the bottom. Once I put the w...
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We picked up the camper yesterday after a thorough inspection of the unit except running the AC units as it was parked well away from the service bay due to lots of units being picked up yesterday. The service manager and the GM have both said there is a marked improvement in the temp and air circulation. I hopefully will see that the end of the week. All from re-taping the ducts near the vents and installing a newer lower profile vent. I am going to let the unit heat up today and crank the genny to see how well she cools down.
The left front where the flex was has no broken caulking in the area. Also, most of you know that there is a relief cut underneath most all new campers with front slides, now ours has a relief cut above the slide to match. Thus making the left front sidewall an individual piece. Well, that piece is a completely new piece of sidewall with a new set of graphics according to the dealer and factory. There are also two large bolts through the slide out trim, one at the top and one at the bottom that appear big enough to go all the way into the stud, not just the sidewall.
The right rear of the camper where the exposed wood behind the end of the skirting has been repaired..but not caulked!! Anyway, we were told that the rear wall was not fastened on the right lower corner and the bolts on the left lower were stripped so all that was holding the back wall in place was the bolts at the top. That supposedly has been corrected.
The banister wall has been repaired and is now very solid. It won't budge. The backer they've reportedly put inside the wall is holding firm. That was the piece that was missing when it was made. I'm happy about that.
When you walk near the rear of the camper, you can smell fresh paint. Really curious as to why they repainted the rear bumper and welds, but it was very obvious that one of the drivers was pretty rough on the rear end as both ends of the hitch flanges were bent. They are low to begin with, but had towed the rig around 4k miles without bending them, however both were bent on this trip.
The screw covering channel was cut on the rear wall edge and was left way to short at the top so water can get in, but that is a 5 minute fix when it goes back to the dealer.
The main part I worry about is there is a tennis ball sized area in the paint on the right upper front of the nose cap that has been damaged. It looks like when the nose was removed, they leaned it against something and tore up the paint. The dealer took note of it and said they could repair that there.
I walked the roof, but they booby trapped it for me. They left the screws on the ladder loose and like to have thrown me off right off the bat! LOL. It's just the screws that hold the ladder sides to the back of the camper. A few turns of a screw driver and it was good to go. The roof looked good and the seam at the nose has plenty of Dicor.
Spent most of the evening trying to remember where everything went and loading it piece by piece. I will update further when I can.
The left front where the flex was has no broken caulking in the area. Also, most of you know that there is a relief cut underneath most all new campers with front slides, now ours has a relief cut above the slide to match. Thus making the left front sidewall an individual piece. Well, that piece is a completely new piece of sidewall with a new set of graphics according to the dealer and factory. There are also two large bolts through the slide out trim, one at the top and one at the bottom that appear big enough to go all the way into the stud, not just the sidewall.
The right rear of the camper where the exposed wood behind the end of the skirting has been repaired..but not caulked!! Anyway, we were told that the rear wall was not fastened on the right lower corner and the bolts on the left lower were stripped so all that was holding the back wall in place was the bolts at the top. That supposedly has been corrected.
The banister wall has been repaired and is now very solid. It won't budge. The backer they've reportedly put inside the wall is holding firm. That was the piece that was missing when it was made. I'm happy about that.
When you walk near the rear of the camper, you can smell fresh paint. Really curious as to why they repainted the rear bumper and welds, but it was very obvious that one of the drivers was pretty rough on the rear end as both ends of the hitch flanges were bent. They are low to begin with, but had towed the rig around 4k miles without bending them, however both were bent on this trip.
The screw covering channel was cut on the rear wall edge and was left way to short at the top so water can get in, but that is a 5 minute fix when it goes back to the dealer.
The main part I worry about is there is a tennis ball sized area in the paint on the right upper front of the nose cap that has been damaged. It looks like when the nose was removed, they leaned it against something and tore up the paint. The dealer took note of it and said they could repair that there.
I walked the roof, but they booby trapped it for me. They left the screws on the ladder loose and like to have thrown me off right off the bat! LOL. It's just the screws that hold the ladder sides to the back of the camper. A few turns of a screw driver and it was good to go. The roof looked good and the seam at the nose has plenty of Dicor.
Spent most of the evening trying to remember where everything went and loading it piece by piece. I will update further when I can.
