propane tanks?

Once I learned how the switch over module works, I open both and check every couple of days. If I were to run out completely, I could sit the 20 lb bottle for the grill in one of the 30 lb bottles' place. Too bad the 30 lb bottles aren't available at the vending machines like 20 lb bottles are. I've thought about using three 20s instead of two 30s for that reason.

I had a Marshall Brass changeover regulator on my last rig and I installed this and put the indicator at the base of the stairs. It would flash amber whenever the regulator flag was red. It told me it was time to look for propane because I was on the alternate tank.

Doesn't work on these new foreign regulators, or I would have one again.

Remote Indicator

One at a time.never ran out at 3am.If I did and I was cold I would walk the ten feet outside and turn it on.no big deal.Im with the thought I will end up with two empty tanks.

Atom Ant is correct. All the safety precautions needed are already engineered into the system. If an accident is bad enough to burst the tanks it wont matter if the tanks are closed.
Use it as designed.

I am still wayne_tw wrote:
watch this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4OIhFwwPq4M

That is actually really misleading - Rarely are trailers equipped with 4 tanks, and that regulator is designed for two. By combining both regulators onto a common line, it truly does create a backflow issue when removing both tanks on one side because they aren't designed for that. If he removed the one non-selected tank from both sides he would be fine.

I travel everywhere with the LP on. The tank valves have a high flow and overfill shutdown, the pigtails have a ball check that closes on high flow as well as a thermal shrink section that closes off the flow in a fire.

Just no point in sweating the small stuff - enjoy your rig to its fullest potential as it was designed for.

In 1998, a modified Type one cylinder connection was introduced to RV's. The main modification was to increase the flow rate allowed through the pigtail to meet the RV's typically higher BTU demand, but additionally there were two new safety features incorporated. The first safety feature deals with fires at the connection to the tank. The connection nut contains a thermoplastic sleeve that, when heated to between 240 - 300 degrees F, will fail in such a way as to back the pigtail connection out of the cylinder valve, causing cylinder pressure to close the cylinder check valve, interrupting the flow of gas. The RV connection nut will be green as seen in the photo on the right.

The second new safety feature is called a “flow-limiting device,” and its purpose is to restrict the flow of escaping gas if there is an excessive leak in the RV’s gas system. It’s this second flow-limiting device feature and how it works that seems to cause the most problems among campers. Almost every time the cylinder valve is opened, a small ball in the center of the brass nipple (inside the green nut) is pushed forward into a brass seat. This seat doesn’t totally shut off the gas. By design, it allows a small amount of gas (by-pass flow) to go into the RV’s gas system. If everything in the gas system is closed and in the “off” position and if there are no leaks, the by-pass flow builds up a back pressure that equalizes the pressure in the system with the cylinder pressure and with the help of a small spring, pushes the ball back off the seat and allows unrestricted flow through the system. All this happens in about five seconds and the owner doesn’t even know it’s happening. Appliances light, furnaces and water heaters run, and every-thing is normal.

I am still wayne_tw wrote:
watch this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4OIhFwwPq4M

Thank you for that!! Learning that one side can backfeed the other, sort of confirmed why I insist on closing both gas valves while traveling:

Tuesday, we were trying to outrun Leon on I-75, in all that ice and traffic congestion. As if that wasn't bad enough - the truck "Low tire pressure" indicator went on; and since the exit ramps were gridlocked, we pulled way off the roadway so Ed could check the tires. It only took a moment - but in that minute, a car lost control, drivers hit their brakes; and a semi truck hit his brakes and his trailer swung hard to the right.... it sounded like an explosion when the trailer hit our rearview mirror. Thank God that was all he hit. If that whole scene had played out a mere 5 seconds sooner, he would have taken out the whole side of the 5er - including the propane storage compartment on the left. A crash would be bad enough - a possible fire with the inability to disconnect the truck would have left us in dire straits indeed....

One at a time and when it gets low I have it filled. I think we've only had to (manually) switch to the second tank once - between the 2 rigs we've owned.

I have hardly ever used that second tank. I have those stuck on propane indicators and check them regularly.

Oaklevel wrote:
Always open both tanks for 30 years..... Auto change over has always worked........( 4 different campers over the years) Usually when one empty's fill it....... Never ran out of both tanks yet....... But it really does not matter personal preference but I do not understand the logic only opening one........... the indicator will tell you one tank is empty time to keep a closer eye on the other or fill the empty......

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One tank at a time for 44 years (1st self contained RV w/propane 1970).
Works for me - never ran out at 3AM........yet.;)

Whatever rings *your* chimes..:C

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Both.

Open both and let the regulator do the switching.