Me_Again
Mar 23, 2016Explorer III
Pull tests
In another thread there was a lot of talk about pull tests. In 1997 we got our first 5th wheel and a Hijacker 16k Ultra sliding bar hitch. We never did pull tests. The hitch in 2001 moved two a se...
SabreCanuck wrote:rhagfo wrote:Cummins12V98 wrote:SabreCanuck wrote:
Sorry, I'm an old trucker. Tug test every time. :)
Do you slam into your hitch and immediately pull forward for your pull test like you did when trucking?
well not speaking for SabreCanuck, but yes I do!
I back in and jaws shut, shift to 1st and do let the clutch out enough to put a strong pull on the pin.
I have once forgot to return the handle to the jaws closed/unlocked position, backed in, placed in 1st, and pulled right out!
With wheels fully chocked, there is enough play in the landing gear to absorb the slight movement of the 5er. If I were high hitched it would pull out much easier without the full weight on the pin.
If you are High Hitched and all the pin weight is on the pin, it will be very hard to pull out from under.
#1 - I don't necessarily SLAM the hitch in. Never did. I do reverse until it latches then give it a TUG. Can't say as I have never 'SLAMMED' the hitch but when I do, I advise myself that it was a rookie mistake :)
#2 - I also check to ensure that the trailer is going to hit mid-ramp on the fifth wheel so to be honest, ALL of the weight is not on the legs as I have already lifted the front of the 5th wheel an inch or so simply by hooking up. To me, that's why it's called a RAMP.
#3 - Ensuring that the trailer starts low on the 5th wheel ramp "almost" avoids the possibility of 'high hitch' as the 5th wheel plate literally has to flip flat as it lifts the trailer to hitch. But after the tug test, I still do a visual check because never say never. Always have, even when trucking.
Everybody has their own way of doing it, this is mine. To each their own.