In another thread there was a lot of talk about pull tests. In 1997 we got our first 5th wheel and a Hijacker 16k Ultra sliding bar hitch. We never did pull tests. The hitch in 2001 moved two a second RAM truck, and 2004 we upgraded to a larger 5th wheel. If the handle and sliding bar that the handle was directly attached to slide in then it was correctly hitched. We ran with a padlock in place of the lock pin 99 percent of the time.In September we got a 2015 RAM and decided on a manual slider from B&W(RVK3270).The B&W lock handle is connected to a dual cam that is between the front extensions of the king pin jaws. So if the handle is in the locked position, pinned or not the jaws will not open when backing into the hitch, as the dual cams are at a right angle to the jaw extensions.To couple up the handle has to be swung forward. When you back into in correctly the king pin slides in between the jaws and then pushs them closed and the spring loaded handle swings to the lock position with the dual cam ends pointing left and right blocking the jaws from openning again. At this point one pins or padlocks the arm in the locked position.So following these steps and installing the padlock, I feel the same as I did with the Hijacker, in that there is no reason to do a pull test.However if a person feels comfortable doing a pull test, then by all means go ahead and complete that step.Chris

I agree Chris, with some hitches it is obvious when hitched and locked. My first hitch was a slide bar, with rotating handle that would not reopen against a spring load. It also locked. I never heard of a pull test back then, but it was a good policy to look closely to see the bar behind the proper portion of the pin.Now with a dual jaw wrapped around the pin, same setup as yours, it made me wonder if somehow those jaws could spread and open on their own. New truck, new hitch, I did pull test as per owners manual, first time. I later looked the hitch over carefully, while moving the arm. I could then see, there is no way jaws can open with the arm closed and pinned, without destroying the hitch head. I still look closely when hitching, and look once more before getting in truck to pull out, but no pull test.This is just my experience, and I won't tell anyone not to do a pull test, especially a new FW owner. You have to do what makes you comfortable, newbie, or pro!Jerry

Me Again wrote:However if a person feels comfortable doing a pull test, then by all means go ahead and complete that step.Why would anyone feel uncomfortable doing a pull test?

I did not include an un!!!So what is your point? Do you want me to add "more" comfortable?Chris

Different point of view!Once the pin enters the jaws of our Reese twin jaw, and the jaws shut the pin isn't going anywhere! I know I have towed 20 miles with the handle unlocked! Pull test told me it was hitched. It was not intentional to tow that way, it had started to rain, and I just overlooked it. Yes, still do a pull test, and two visual checks.

Me Again wrote:I feel the same as I did with the Hijacker, in that there is no reason to do a pull test.ChrisI would tend to agree using a Hijacker bar type hitch. We still use a Hijacker. It has been a reliable hitch and easy to use. A quick visual can confirm any possible issue.

Pull tests | Good Sam Community

56 Replies

valhalla360
Navigator
Mar 23, 2016
It takes 5 seconds...DW stops as soon as the landing gear clears the ground, I hold down the trailer brakes and see if she pulls out...then put it in park while she raises the landing gear and I take care of my tasks.

We also do a visual that the pin is fully engaged.

Some people don't wear seat belts and haven't died due to it either.
SH
Explorer
Mar 23, 2016
Me Again wrote:

I feel the same as I did with the Hijacker, in that there is no reason to do a pull test.Chris

I would tend to agree using a Hijacker bar type hitch. We still use a Hijacker. It has been a reliable hitch and easy to use. A quick visual can confirm any possible issue.
rhagfo
Explorer III
Mar 23, 2016
Different point of view!
Once the pin enters the jaws of our Reese twin jaw, and the jaws shut the pin isn't going anywhere! I know I have towed 20 miles with the handle unlocked! Pull test told me it was hitched.
It was not intentional to tow that way, it had started to rain, and I just overlooked it.

Yes, still do a pull test, and two visual checks.
Me_Again
Explorer III
Mar 23, 2016
I did not include an un!!!

So what is your point? Do you want me to add "more" comfortable?

Chris
Sport45
Explorer II
Mar 23, 2016
Me Again wrote:
However if a person feels comfortable doing a pull test, then by all means go ahead and complete that step.

Why would anyone feel uncomfortable doing a pull test?
MFL
Nomad II
Mar 23, 2016
I agree Chris, with some hitches it is obvious when hitched and locked. My first hitch was a slide bar, with rotating handle that would not reopen against a spring load. It also locked. I never heard of a pull test back then, but it was a good policy to look closely to see the bar behind the proper portion of the pin.

Now with a dual jaw wrapped around the pin, same setup as yours, it made me wonder if somehow those jaws could spread and open on their own. New truck, new hitch, I did pull test as per owners manual, first time. I later looked the hitch over carefully, while moving the arm. I could then see, there is no way jaws can open with the arm closed and pinned, without destroying the hitch head. I still look closely when hitching, and look once more before getting in truck to pull out, but no pull test.

This is just my experience, and I won't tell anyone not to do a pull test, especially a new FW owner. You have to do what makes you comfortable, newbie, or pro!

Jerry

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Pull tests

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