Question to all WW FS3000 owners

lincster wrote:

PyroTekRob wrote:

nayther wrote:


not uncommon to get a check light when you change tanks or run it dry. The igniter will try to light the pilot a number of times and if it fails to sense a flame due to no gas (air in the line) it will show a trouble code (check light) and shut down. turn it off and back on on gas and it should light. Before doing that bleed the gas line at the stove.

Thanks, I didnt even think to bleed it using the stove.
I Always bleed out the air using a stove burner any time the tanks run out or after changing tanks. It cuts down on having to reset the frig lock out switch multiple times.
Usually we're busy setting up the TH and since the frig will just try 1 time for 45 seconds start cycle, its not uncommon to come back to the frig a few hours latter and to our dismay its off on lockout from air in the line...
Once stove burner lights, at least air is bleed out of lines up to the tee that branches off to the refrigerator. Now 1 automatic attempt at starting the frig should bleed the rest of the air out without needing to reset the automatic shutdown switch for another 45 seconds of starting cycle.

Was in the trailer trying to make sure everything works and noticed someone cut or disconnected the wires to the Propane and Carbon M sensors. I think i see why, when clicking the power off that little whine is kind of annoying. Debating on installing little power switches on them.
Imo, don't mess with the safety equipment at all. Its there for a reason and wired up how it should be. If you did wire in a off/on switch, if you ever forgot to turn it on...
Those safety devices could save your life, or others life. They just have to be running 100% of the time. Unfortunately I've seen people carried out of a TH in body bags from asphyxiation.
When turning power off/on that little whine only last a couple of seconds. I like it. It confirms power is off or on. Usually the reason someone messes with those is because the batteries are low or dying and the whine and warning noise won't stop because of low battery voltage.

Another question for all
What does the tongue of your FSC3000s measure leveled? I was getting about 27 to 28 inches. My lady thinks the ground is unlevel, but seems pretty level to me. I think my hitch was to low and my WD not set up right which is why I had so much sag before.

I was also told not to run my air bags for leveling with WD. only a few psi for ride comfort. Whats everyone opinion or experience running air bags and WD Hitches?

No opinion on air bags, but I do have one for WD hitches and that trailer.
I owned a FS3000, 2004.
I had a tongue weight scale and measured my tongue weight in different configurations.

1. Empty tanks and no toys: TW = 1400lbs.
2. Full water tank and no toys: TW = 1700lbs.
3. Full water and 4 full size quads in the back: TW = 1400lbs.

The point of this is you need a WD hitch with bars rated to at least 1400lbs.
There aren't many hitches out there rated that high, but they do exist.

HaHa... lightweights,,, lol
iirr, that model,,, didn't WW call it an ultra light... lol

My WW broke the Sherline scales 2000lb gauge.
Had to order the 5000lb gauge for my fsw3200. 5000lb gauge head works good, right in the middle of the gauges range now.

What size drawtite did you get with your TH..?
lincster is right, you need a beefy WD hitch. Some new ones have come out recently that have 2000 & 1700 lb tw capacity with a single stinger receiver. Blue ox is one, Reese another.