questions for full timing in my new 5th wheel...

jake122288 wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:
The furnace fan blower will not move enough exhaust with additional ducting.....not big enough
Furnace will trip/shut down on 'high limit switch' (overheated combustion chamber due to restricted exhaust flow)

IF you use electric for water heater......make sure it is full of water and you have water in fresh water tank and a working pump.
Electric heating elements only last a few minutes if turned on and not submerged in water.

The water heater wont be used once winter hits since I do not plan on having water in the RV once winter hits that was just a statement referencing for the time being since I do have water until the temps start to drop

Will installing a fan in the ducting or at the wall where it wouuld exit the building help? Or should I just let it vent inside the building with a fan in one of the walls be my exhaust to pull the fumes out?

There are powered vents for furnaces. They're installed in the vent pipe. They're 120V. They can be controlled by an induction relay. So the vent runs only when the furnace does. An induction relay is simple. It's a switch for 120V circuit. It has a loop of metal you put around a wire that carries current when the furnace runs. It senses current flow like an ammeter and doesn't require you to tap into the furnaces' circuitry. (which can mess things up) They're about $30.
As an HVAC tech I removed the ceiling furnaces from a factory. The building had so much negative pressure that the furnaces wouldn't run, so they all had powered vents. I have a drawer full of powered vents. some have the fan right in the pipe, some gather outside air and power air thru nozzles toward the direction of air flow. I'd go ahead and install a powered vent. Because even if the furnace operates OK on a nice mild day when you test it, things will change when the temperatures drop and the wind picks up. I wouldn't vent the furnace inside the building. It's not only dangerous I'm pretty sure it's illegal.

My camper is presently hooked to a 500 gallon propane tank. It's plumbed in like a house with a high pressure regulator on the tank and a low pressure regulator mounted to a board just before it goes into the camper. I've disconnected the rubber hose off of the 30# cylinders and hooked the copper line from the low pressure regulator directly to the piping of the camper. Then I plugged the rubber hose to keep out wasps. I don't stay in my camper in Ohio for the winter. This is just used in the spring & fall.

I don't think you're allowed to install 100# cylinders on the little hi/lo regulator of a camper. (At least I wouldn't be comfortable with it) Plus the propane cylinders will have to be outside of the building. You'd be too far from the regulator for good pressure control. Most propane suppliers also supply regulators. I'd try to get a bigger tank too. The 100#'s won't last long running a furnace. Plus with a larger tank sometimes you can get a discount buying in bulk.

You have to think too, that the little camper furnace wasn't designed for 0* temps. I'd consider adding a Little Buddy propane heater with the optional plumbing and hook it directly to the campers' propane supply. It'll give your furnace some relief plus give an alternative source of heat if the furnace fails. It'll work in a power failure too.

Keeping the wind off of your camper will make a big difference in your ability to heat it. I've noticed with mine that the wind makes as big of a difference as the outdoor temperatures in how often the furnace cycles. I think you'll be OK.

Sorry this is so long but it's not a simple problem. And if you're doing the work yourself, you should get a qualified HVAC tech to check it out when you're done.

Old-Biscuit wrote:
The furnace fan blower will not move enough exhaust with additional ducting.....not big enough
Furnace will trip/shut down on 'high limit switch' (overheated combustion chamber due to restricted exhaust flow)

IF you use electric for water heater......make sure it is full of water and you have water in fresh water tank and a working pump.
Electric heating elements only last a few minutes if turned on and not submerged in water.

The water heater wont be used once winter hits since I do not plan on having water in the RV once winter hits that was just a statement referencing for the time being since I do have water until the temps start to drop

Will installing a fan in the ducting or at the wall where it wouuld exit the building help? Or should I just let it vent inside the building with a fan in one of the walls be my exhaust to pull the fumes out?

The furnace fan blower will not move enough exhaust with additional ducting.....not big enough
Furnace will trip/shut down on 'high limit switch' (overheated combustion chamber due to restricted exhaust flow)

IF you use electric for water heater......make sure it is full of water and you have water in fresh water tank and a working pump.
Electric heating elements only last a few minutes if turned on and not submerged in water.

GoPackGo wrote:
Where in Iowa are you ? Temperature-wise, there's a big difference between living nearer to Minnesota then to Missouri. I lived in Davenport for most of my life and I can remember winters where it never got to zero and many that got down to -20 or colder. A few years ago I read that an unheated garage will gain you about 10 degrees so that's what I would guess the inside/outside temperature difference will be. You'll need to do something to keep the water lines and tanks from freezing for sure. Assuming you have access to electricity, then you could even run one or more electric heaters inside the skirting when it gets below zero.

Last - Will snow block the vents in a blizzard ?

Tim

I live about 30 miles se of desmoines

The fridge in the campers cooling unit is out so gas line has been removed and plugged and were using a standard house fridge in the corner of the building. We have full 30 amp.service for the RV as well as 3 addition 15 amp circuits for use in the building. We do have access to the entire house as well just isn't a place to stay there hints the camper being our home. I will be fine not having water all winter its a pain yes but I'm limited to.what I can do since.the camper is the only thing that's mine. The property and building belong to a friend kind enough to let us park and stay... I can add venting as needed to the building but he doesn't want me adding water lines or anything else like a large LP tank.

As for water up here I have large 1.5 gallon jugs ill keep filled and sitting around. Just have to pull then in with time to thaw before we need it for cooking or drinking.
as.for the grey tank from anything that gets down the drain there is a pvc drain just to outside the building. Just drains to the ground so not usable for the black tank anyway... will it hurt to just leave the drain line hooked into this with the grey valve open?
So if the furnace wont operate with additional ducting... how do I need to go about that.. ill need some heat other than the electric heater...

As for the battery it reads full charge and stays charged or charging from the inverter...

My theory on the ducting for the furnace is just typical. Home hvac ducting and out something similar to a dryer vent cap... I was gonna use wrapped insulated.ducting and run out and up angled so it would actually b exiting about 9 foot up so I don't thing snow would block it. Only thing I haven't thought about was how to mount and seal the ducting to the furnace exhaust vent. Water heater is ran on electric so I'm not too worried about its venting.

Where in Iowa are you ? Temperature-wise, there's a big difference between living nearer to Minnesota then to Missouri. I lived in Davenport for most of my life and I can remember winters where it never got to zero and many that got down to -20 or colder. A few years ago I read that an unheated garage will gain you about 10 degrees so that's what I would guess the inside/outside temperature difference will be. You'll need to do something to keep the water lines and tanks from freezing for sure. Assuming you have access to electricity, then you could even run one or more electric heaters inside the skirting when it gets below zero.

Last - Will snow block the vents in a blizzard ?

Tim

RV Furnace will not handle 'additional' exhaust ducting.......your furnace will shutdown (high limit switch) due to lack of exhaust flow.

RV fridges don't work very well in cold temps...so you will need a means of warming the backside of fridge so that it can cool properly.
Also if on LP you will have exhaust fumes from top vent.

Water in fresh water tank will be OK IF you have an enclosed/heated underbelly on your rig.....otherwise you will need a means of keeping the tank warm.

100# tank(s) are the way to go........we stayed in 0* temps and had to refill 30# cylinder every other day. Depending on temps you will probably have to fill once a week.
Propane supplier can set you up....high pressure hoses/fittings/regulator etc.

At some point you will need to dump waste tanks.......how are you planning on that?

How are you planning on maintaining charge on battery?
Fridge, water heater, lights, furnace all need 12V DC power>>>

I'm definately not having water at the RV this winter. Just gonna winterize and use other means which also means no worry for grey and blank tanks

You are going to miss water all winter. In a building it would not be that hard to make it work filling your fresh water tank. JMHO

Read the sticky in the full time forum about winterizing, lots of tips there, the one about closing off some of the venting to the fridge is a must, I did that last year and worked well. Water Lines in the camper won't freeze if you are running the propane heat they are above the floor, I would also use an electric heater this will save some propane. You can fill the tank and re-fill as needed as long as you keep the hose used warm, flowing water does not freeze. The exposed black and grey lines and dump valves would need to be heated to keep them operational, there are several ways to do this.

loulou57 wrote:
It really is hard for someone else to make that call on how it should be done.. How much snow do you get? Will the roof vents be kept clear? Is your RV tight against a wall? You will have to make sure your vents are clear of critters. Both birds and mice, rats etc. could nest in your vents, remember it is a farm.

Water lines would freeze in the pole barn so you will need to see how well you are insulated. Others can answer that issue likely.

The slide out is just a few inches from the wall and the other side of the camper has a good 3 foot o so between the walls. I'm thinking of just getting some flex hose ducting and giving it.a way to vent outside the building. I'm definately not having water at the RV this winter. Just gonna winterize and use other means which also means no worry for grey and blank tanks

It really is hard for someone else to make that call on how it should be done.. How much snow do you get? Will the roof vents be kept clear? Is your RV tight against a wall? You will have to make sure your vents are clear of critters. Both birds and mice, rats etc. could nest in your vents, remember it is a farm.

Water lines would freeze in the pole barn so you will need to see how well you are insulated. Others can answer that issue likely.