Raising a 5er

I don't have any extra holes in the hangers. I have thought about the Correct Track they say that can lift by 2ins?
Also no chance to flip the axle thanks.

Another option, look at the spring hangers, see if there is another set of holes below where the springs are mounted. On our Landmark with a Lippert frame, I had holes 2" below the springs. I relocated my springs to these holes and gained the height I need to tow level.

OP.... if you notice lift blocks are not a option on our RV trailers with close spaced axles in the center of the trailer. Nor do axle mfg recommend using them.

A truck has the axles at the corners with the front tires steering around the corner and the rear axle simply following.
The biggest issues is side loads placed on the axle U bolts are multiplied as the trailers tires slide sideways (scrubbing) while going around a corner or sharp turns while backing.

Most folks use a square tube sub frame between the main frame and suspension to raise the trailer safely.

Axle flip will raise you 6 or 6.5 inches. Them you can adjust the hitch. You will have plenty of bed clearance, the bottom step will be too high, the rear stabilizers may not touch. It may be better to cut everything off and build a sub frame. You can get another inch buy going to 16 in tires also.

Welcome to the club, just throw money at it.

If your 5er axles are on top of the springs then just "flip" them to the bottom.mine came that way so when we went from an 03 to a 12 just put hitch in top holes.

rhagfo wrote:
I would not go with 3" lift blocks between the axle and the spring, too much side force.
The most I would do with blocks is 1", time to build a sub-frame, 3" steel tube.

I agree

I would not go with 3" lift blocks between the axle and the spring, too much side force.
The most I would do with blocks is 1", time to build a sub-frame, 3" steel tube.