rhagfo wrote:
johntank wrote:
I will say yes if you know your way around the tool box. the trick in doing this is one must have all weight off the axles on at lest one side and high enough to bring equalizer down to the lower hole, but it is best to have the weight off both sides. Hope this helps.
Just takes a bit of planing and caution, when I work on the suspension I use cribbing built of 12 inch long sections of 2X4's. You can get 8' 2X4's for about $2, and each will give you a 6" stack. I also have a couple of HD jack Stands I used last time.
That's very similar to what I just did with our 38', 12,000 pound 5er when I installed wet bolts and a 1" block with 9/16" u bolts for a bit more wheel to body clearance. About the only difference is that I used 4x4x? treated which is usually tighter grained wood for cribbing. It might be even less expensive using the 4x4. I also cut them longer - 16 inches will get you 6 pieces from an 8 footer, 24 inches will get 4. The 12" length would worry me as far as stability - at least on ours, due to the height needed. Lower the nose as far as it will go, build up your cribbing then raise it back up until the wheels are off the ground. The landing gear is probably capable of holding the front but it will wiggle, hence the stationary jack stands. Oh and don't be surprised as I was if the spring shackles 'reverse' with the E-Z Flex or MORryde (two 5ers, with one or the other).