I think it's time to replace the brakes. When we do our pull test the brakes engage but there appears to be a delay before they fully engage. Figured it would be a good time to have the bearing repacked at the same time. Here's the quote from the dealer if brakes need to be replaced: Bearings repacked $100 each axle x2, $100 each brake assembly x 4, $100-$200 for labor + parts. Final quote $800-$900 for the job. Seems awfully high to me. Is this something DH and I can do ourselves? Looked at E trailer and their prices... has anyone found better prices?Any advise if we attempt to do it ourselves?

I stopped doing brake jobs on our electric brake systems on our 5ver. I just buy a whole new assembly for $50-60 each. Then it's 5 small nuts to take off, slide out the old brake and slide on the new. Replace the nuts. You'll have to splice two wires on each brake. Use some weatherproof wiring nuts for that:AmazonBrakesFind a local dealer and just take one of the old brake assemblies down to them to get the right part if you aren't certain what you need. As for the bearings, once you have the wheel off it's a ten minute job (not counting the brakes) There are a lot of videos on YouTube showing you exactly what to to. Costs: one tub of high pressure axle grease--about $5. Amazon 2Youtube eTrailerTotal $300 or less and an afternoon of time.

I just replaced the brakes plus all the bearings/races and repacked myself. Got the brake assemblies (backing plate with all of the parts already mounted). Just a matter of removing wheel, hub, 5 bolts holding backing plate and 2 actuator wires. Much easier than replacing the brake shoes, springs, etc. Knocking the races out and carefully putting the new ones in was the most time consuming. Keeping everything clean while repacking bearings was another challenge. Averaged about 4 hours a wheel.Technically you should have a torque wrench for the backing plate bolts and lug nuts.Check ebay for bearings/races and brake assemblies in original packaging.

Pull the tire, pull the drum and physically check the brake shoes first. MOST LIKELY they only need adjusting and the shoes are fine. As the shoes wear, they must be adjusted back up so they can reach the drums when the brakes are applied. It is done with a screw driver through the slotted hole in the bottom of the back plate. Pull the drum and see what you are doing, and which way to turn the little star wheel inside to tighten.

btd35 wrote:Pull the tire, pull the drum and physically check the brake shoes first. MOST LIKELY they only need adjusting and the shoes are fine. As the shoes wear, they must be adjusted back up so they can reach the drums when the brakes are applied. It is done with a screw driver through the slotted hole in the bottom of the back plate. Pull the drum and see what you are doing, and which way to turn the little star wheel inside to tighten.After you to pull the drum, look at the pucks to see how much wear has occurred. The pucks when new have dimples much like a golf ball. If they are badly worn they will have a smooth face. If that's the case, might just as well get new brake assembly with backing plate as the cost of new pucks is more than half the cost of a new assembly. If pucks are ok, next check to see if the lining is coming loose as that is quite common. Even if all new assemblies are needed the cost is about $250as with new have seals.

Replacing my own Brakes... how difficult? | Good Sam Community

24 Replies

Oaklevel
Explorer
Jul 27, 2013
jjj wrote:
I would just pull and check them first. When I do my pull test I have the same thing. It will move a little before full brakes due to the design of the electric brakes, it takes a little movement before the magnet on the drum rotates enough to make the brakes to fully engage.

X2

Our dealer charges less than 1/2 of that for the bearing repack...........

How old is your trailer???? May need adjustment, or may just be as designed........

If you are not mechanically inclined or have the tools, jack stands etc. don't do it...........
Ozlander
Explorer
Jul 27, 2013
C.B. wrote:
Here's what IMHO is the way to replace trailer brakes.

First pic is the old brake assembly.

New self adjusting brake assembly installed.

C.B.

I didn't see anything wrong with the old brakes. :?
C_B_
Explorer
Jul 27, 2013
Here's what IMHO is the way to replace trailer brakes.

First pic is the old brake assembly.

New self adjusting brake assembly installed.

C.B.
jjj
Explorer
Jul 27, 2013
I would just pull and check them first. When I do my pull test I have the same thing. It will move a little before full brakes due to the design of the electric brakes, it takes a little movement before the magnet on the drum rotates enough to make the brakes to fully engage.
agesilaus
Explorer III
Jul 27, 2013
It should only take a couple of hours.
TOOBOLD
Explorer
Jul 27, 2013
bucky wrote:
You haven't said what DH has to say about this. Does he have the proper tools, jacks, safety stands, and a level safe place to do all this? Where it can sit for a week or 2 without being in the way? Sometimes it pays to pay. The price does not sound unreasonable, but shopping around is alway a good idea. Check reviews on what's her names list also.

Yes, we have the jack, stands, the impact wrench and that man has a ton of tools and just inherited all of my dad's too. Whatever he doesn't have we'll buy. Why would it take a couple of weeks? $800 is pretty steep for us right now.

We plan on adjusting the breaks first and see how that goes. Thank goodness for you tube.
Vulcaneer
Explorer
Jul 27, 2013
btd35 wrote:
and which way to turn the little star wheel inside to tighten.

Remember..."Down and out". That means (after inserting tool into the star) you pull the handle on the brake adjusting spoon(tool) down and the brake pads move out (tightens). Works this way on both sides.
bucky
Explorer II
Jul 27, 2013
You haven't said what DH has to say about this. Does he have the proper tools, jacks, safety stands, and a level safe place to do all this? Where it can sit for a week or 2 without being in the way? Sometimes it pays to pay. The price does not sound unreasonable, but shopping around is alway a good idea. Check reviews on what's her names list also.
dbbls
Explorer
Jul 27, 2013
Dexter makes self adjusting brakes and these are nice. As others have said, buy the backing plate with the new shoes and magnets already installed.
powderman426
Explorer
Jul 27, 2013
btd35 wrote:
Pull the tire, pull the drum and physically check the brake shoes first. MOST LIKELY they only need adjusting and the shoes are fine. As the shoes wear, they must be adjusted back up so they can reach the drums when the brakes are applied. It is done with a screw driver through the slotted hole in the bottom of the back plate. Pull the drum and see what you are doing, and which way to turn the little star wheel inside to tighten.

After you to pull the drum, look at the pucks to see how much wear has occurred. The pucks when new have dimples much like a golf ball. If they are badly worn they will have a smooth face. If that's the case, might just as well get new brake assembly with backing plate as the cost of new pucks is more than half the cost of a new assembly. If pucks are ok, next check to see if the lining is coming loose as that is quite common. Even if all new assemblies are needed the cost is about $250as with new have seals.

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Replacing my own Brakes... how difficult?

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