Residential Fridge Yay or Nay?

routemaster wrote:

John & Angela wrote:

burningman wrote:

justme wrote:
Most trucks charging voltage to a trailer is fused at 25 amps which is 300 watts. So there is no way the batteries can be kept up to full charge while driving with out the additional charge from solar panels.

There most certainly is! Trucks have or can be retrofitted with rather powerful alternators. You can even order them with dual alternators. The power is there.
All you need to do is run much heavier gauge charge wires, and use a separate heavy duty high current connector for them.

Not to mention, the initial surge of a residential refrigerator may be higher but the fridge itself draws less than 25 amps DC while its running, and that is only about a third of the time. Lots of residential fridges only pull about an amp and a half AC which is less than 20 amps DC even counting for the inverter loss. A truck alternator should have no problem keeping a battery on a trailer while a residential fridge is running in the trailer.

I have just looked at my Magunm panel and it says a start of 10amps and runs at 7amps running our Samsung RF197 is that OK? We are running off solar.

I'm not familiar with the Samsung. I assume you are talking DC amps. It is more efficient than ours. Ours is usually around 20 but not as low as 7 amps. That is very efficient. How big is it. Ours is a 22 cubic foot. Ours uses more on defrost cycle but can't remember how much. Its too hard to measure in startup as it is just a split second and my Fluke meter doesn't have a freeze function.

We run off solar about 14 hours per day as we are on a time of use plan. We do regularly dry camp with ours though. No issues but we have a robust solar and battery bank as we are power hogs, TV, Lap top etc. On sunny days we don't run the genny but we run the genny for appliances for half an hour at meal times if we have no sun