Restoring A Reese Kwik Slide Hitch

MainerBob wrote:
I have the same one, "Draw-Tite." Mine was in the truck when I got it. Since my "new" trailer has a Sidewinder I haven't needed the slider. Are you all sure about hitching with the jaws closed and will that also go for hitching with the Sidewinder? I always hitch with the handle pulled out and jaws open. Does it make a difference?

If the handle isn't locked, and the jaws are shut they will open around the pin as you back in, then snap shut, the handle will move out as the jaws open.

This is the way I always do it, it allows a pull test as soon as the handle pops shut, as the jaws are forced shut when you pull on the pin.

I have the same one, "Draw-Tite." Mine was in the truck when I got it. Since my "new" trailer has a Sidewinder I haven't needed the slider. Are you all sure about hitching with the jaws closed and will that also go for hitching with the Sidewinder? I always hitch with the handle pulled out and jaws open. Does it make a difference?

Jpatrickc wrote:

rhagfo wrote:
1st MOD!!

Take the kick up out of the release handle!
Go from this to .......


This!



Gets the handle completely out of the way of the pin box.

Clean it lube it CHECK for wear, hitch correctly.
Waiting for your pictures.

Great idea for a mod. I need to do this. I assume you just cut of the original connecting section and drill a new hole for the cotter pin?

Pat

Yes, cut right after the tube returned to normal inside diameter. This upgrade truly took less than 15 minutes to do.

It cleaned up well and I'm ready to take it for a test tow except for a lube plate.

Is one as good as another? Some are Nylon, Teflon or 'Plastic' (I assume that's nylon). Is there one I should stay away from?

THanks

Looks like mine too! Remember that if you can't easily close the locking clasp, your probably high hitched.
To hitch 5er. Leave the jaws closed, locking clasp open. I let the pin box slide up the hitch and listen for the jaws to snap closed around the pin. After the jaws snap around the pin I visually look at the jaws then close the locking clasp.
To me the key is if that clasp will easily close on the release handle your good to go. If not, unhitch and do it over.
I paid $150 for mine 3 years ago. Sent Reese an email asking for new stickers and the fixed me up. Here is a pic of mine after cleaning, painting and putting on the new stickers.
Good luck, John

2112 wrote:
Thanks for the input. After looking it over in the sunlight it's not as bad as I thought.

Here's some pic's:


It came with the rails and all mounting hardware


Made in 1996. You have a good point about stress fatigue on a 20 yr old hitch.


Thanks for pointing out the handle and cotter pin. This one is installed upside down and the pin is not properly installed.


I currently have a SuperGlide. My intent is trying this one to see which I like better. This one is about 50lbs lighter than the SuperGlide so that's a plus.

I found information on another model and this one appears to be the same so I'm starting to figure out how this thing works and where to lube.

Thanks for all your input.

Wow!! That looks like the EXACT same set up I had when I bought the '06! Except my hitch said "DrawTite" instead of Reese, I'll bet they're both made by the same manufacture. Worked good for me, the '06 was a long box so I never used the slider.

I painted the jaws white on mine after reading about that tip on here. Makes checking that the jaws are properly closed way easier!

Clean it up and squirt a little oil on it and you're good to go.

Dan

Thanks for the input. After looking it over in the sunlight it's not as bad as I thought.

Here's some pic's:


It came with the rails and all mounting hardware


Made in 1996. You have a good point about stress fatigue on a 20 yr old hitch.


Thanks for pointing out the handle and cotter pin. This one is installed upside down and the pin is not properly installed.


I currently have a SuperGlide. My intent is trying this one to see which I like better. This one is about 50lbs lighter than the SuperGlide so that's a plus.

I found information on another model and this one appears to be the same so I'm starting to figure out how this thing works and where to lube.

Thanks for all your input.

2112,

I only mentioned the date because if it's really old it's integrity MAY be compromised is all. You got a pretty good deal if that hitch is in decent shape. The thing is, you don't know how well or how abused this hitch was treated before you got it.

When I bought my '06 RAM it had a hitch already mounted very similar to what you have now. I was leery of it at first too. I had NO idea how many winters it had spent in the bed subjected to salt spray, snow, dust/dirt or whatever but after taking the head off of it and cleaning it and lubing it I felt comfortable using it.

I would say just be cautious the first few times you hook up. Enjoy your hitch!

Dan

rhagfo wrote:
1st MOD!!

Take the kick up out of the release handle!
Go from this to .......


This!



Gets the handle completely out of the way of the pin box.

Clean it lube it CHECK for wear, hitch correctly.
Waiting for your pictures.

Great idea for a mod. I need to do this. I assume you just cut of the original connecting section and drill a new hole for the cotter pin?

Pat

1st MOD!!

Take the kick up out of the release handle!
Go from this to .......


This!



Gets the handle completely out of the way of the pin box.

Clean it lube it CHECK for wear, hitch correctly.
Waiting for your pictures.