Similar setup

MFL wrote:
Well it seems like your rig is going to work out great! The FW towing experience is usually a good one. You have the tree thing figured out, as you always have to be watching for clearance.

The dealer should have driven the 90 miles (sent a flunky) with your power cord. The batteries will need charging, not to mention the inconvenience for you. If your batteries get down to 12.2, before your cord shows up, I'd put a charger on them.

Hope you enjoy the new FW,
Jerry

I agree 100%, this was a job for the FNG to deliver to you directly, even if it meant after-hours for the employee. NO excuse, especially for a newb customer. One reason I like my non-removable shore cord, BTW. :-) IMO, you should put the charger on the batteries, no matter what. Got to keep them up, or risk damaging them.

Lyle

Well it seems like your rig is going to work out great! The FW towing experience is usually a good one. You have the tree thing figured out, as you always have to be watching for clearance.

The dealer should have driven the 90 miles (sent a flunky) with your power cord. The batteries will need charging, not to mention the inconvenience for you. If your batteries get down to 12.2, before your cord shows up, I'd put a charger on them.

Hope you enjoy the new FW,
Jerry

Update:

Well, today I picked up our 2016 333MKS from the dealer. On the way down I weighed my truck at a CAT scales; full fluids and two passengers (myself and my dad), no hitch, no trailer.

Front 5140
Rear 3260
Total 8400

About a week prior, I had weighed my truck at a different (non-CAT) scale and with full fluids, and just myself (no hitch) my weight was:

Front 5020
Rear 3200
Total 8220

A difference of about 180 pounds (my passenger on the second weight)

We spent about 3 hours at the dealer, did the walk through, found a couple minor issues, waited for them to install the hitch, hooked up, took a test drive, signed a few pieces of paper and left. The truck (stock rear suspension) only dropped a couple of inches with the trailer connected and off jacks.

This is my first 5er, and while I was apprehensive due to my concerns of weights and such, the tow home was relatively uneventful. I didn't feel any chucking or anything to cause me concern. I stopped at the same CAT scales (as earlier in the AM) to get my weights with the trailer.

I topped off the diesel (but not DEF) and still had a passenger. with the trailer (dry, except the dealer installed two batteries, and filled both the 7 gallon LPG tanks.) and hitch, these were my weights.

Front 5180
Rear 5540
Trailer 8720
Total 19440

Used on my math, the hitch and pin added ~2280. Figuring the hitch setup is about 300, puts my dry hitch in the 1980 range. That puts the trailer about 10740.

I increased my integrated trailer brake gain and used the factory engine brake.

All-in-all, it felt steady, didn't feel like the truck was struggling or lugging and stopping and handling felt comfortable. Granted this was only about a 90 mile trip, but gave me a good start.

However... I had to trim several trees along my driveway to allow for clearance.

I set it up on my driveway and opened everything up, opened the windows to air it out and show some family. During this time idiscovered the worker bees at the dealer FORGOT TO PUT THE SHORE POWER CORD back in the unit, so I have NO WAY to power the unit for several days.

I called the dealer and they had the cord and will be shipping it to me. Fortunately I won't need it for a about a week. Needless to say, had I been taking it camping and arrived at dusk and discovered I was without power... :M:M

My trailer is a similar weight (although much shorter) to yours. My truck is an older 3500 with similar towing capacities to yours. My SuperGlide has to weigh in close to your proposed hitch. Mine rides level with minimal porpoising. But, I think a set of Bilsteins are in my future. Regarding things to be aware of, the newer RAM 4x4s are really high. Watch for "nose high" with the trailer hooked up and make sure you have at least 6" of clearance between your trailer and the bed rails. You're going to be glad you have the engine brake on downhills. I had to add it to mine and I love it.

Keep in mind that the 60 gal fresh water tank is in the rear, well behind the axles, so a full load would not adversely affect your pin weight. That might help your rear axle calculations a little bit.

I tow with an F350 with stock braking and wouldn't want anything less in braking power. Some drivers have put those brakes to the test for me on several occasions. The 333MKS brakes are OK (typical) but maybe a disk brake upgrade might be useful.

My fiver is lighter than that but has no issues at all and the truck was better than level with no help. I did add Timbrens because the ride felt a little softer than I liked with the trailer, and I prefer it now - nice and firm and it handles highway bumps very well. I don' think you'll have any issues at all, and frankly I don't think you're close to pushing it with that setup.

I'd take it out for a test tow before you add anything to the suspension because I don't think you'll actually need anything supplemental. Then if you're happy with it, save yourself some money. If you decide you'd like to add air or Timbrens or whatever later, make that decision after you've tried it out first.

Probably no help to you but we have a 2010 Ram 3500 CTD 4x4 megacab and tow a 39' Keystone Alpine (dry 12.5 k loaded 13.5) and our pin is 2680. Even with one ton springs I added air bags to level the rig and Bilstein 4600 shocks to counter the porpoising ( chucking) on the interstates and the ride is now great. BTW have B&W companion non slider for over 10k miles towing.