Slide works its way out while stored.

Electric operated slide.....motor clutch/brake slipping

Hydraulic operated slide.....ram/piston solenoid valve leaking by

Agree with Old-Biscuit. We had the same problem with one of our electric slides. Turned out to be a bad brake clutch on the slide motor. So, if the slide in question is electric, I'd bet you have the same problem. The fix was a new motor/brake assembly. Don't recall the cost, but I believe it was something in the $350 - $500 range, installed.

Thanks for your replies, I will take it in for repair. This forum is a great resource.

If you don't mind, when you get it diagnosed and/or repaired, could you return and post what the problem was and how it was fixed. It helps when you can find out if the diagnosis is correct and also the repair. TIA.

Okay, will do. I have an appointment for mid November, so will report after the fix.

If hydraulic, you might try, run it out and hold the button down for a 5 count. Run it in hold a 5 count, repeat once more. This fully fills all spaces with the hydraulic fluid, whether oil or glycol. A cheap fix, with a low chance of causing damage. If it does not work, you still have your appointment with the pros.

Hi, it has been at the repair place for 2 weeks, and finally got word on the issue. No fault was found with the operation, so the tech called the factory to see if they had a suggestion. They said check the pressure at the pump, it should be 2200 psi. The tech ordered in a pressure checker that could measure the very high pressure, and it did show that it did lost pressure over night.
Now the bad news, the pump,tank and electricals only come as a complete assembly at about $1200 plus shipping markup, labor. The lead time is likely two weeks.
The tech has tried to source parts, but no luck.

cor4743 wrote:
Hi, it has been at the repair place for 2 weeks, and finally got word on the issue. No fault was found with the operation, so the tech called the factory to see if they had a suggestion. They said check the pressure at the pump, it should be 2200 psi. The tech ordered in a pressure checker that could measure the very high pressure, and it did show that it did lost pressure over night.
Now the bad news, the pump,tank and electricals only come as a complete assembly at about $1200 plus shipping markup, labor. The lead time is likely two weeks.
The tech has tried to source parts, but no luck.

Unless the rams have been inspected separately, you don't know if a ram seal isn't leaking, causing the pressure to drop on the pressure-side of the pump. You can drop near-$2k on the pump replacement bill and =still= have an issue if the rams are leaking internally. Also, it could be as simple as some cr@p in one of the solenoid valves not allowing it to close completely, thus leaking.

Lyle

one other thing that can help... not solve a problem.

is spacer bars. i use a set of three all the time. they keep the slide locked in all the way so no stress on any of the gears or moving parts.

just remember to remove before opening the slide..


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Your Tech is getting bad advise or doesn’t know how to trouble shoot your system correctly... when the pump is not running there is zero pressure at the pump the slides are held closed by solenoid check valves with pressure within those lines..

There is a ver6 specific and detailed procedure regarding how he should be pressure checking your system... he’s obviously not trained if he didn’t already have a manifold pressure guard in the shop

If he has not done a leak down check on each hudraulic piston I’d on it... I’m more inclined to believe you have air in the system from a leaking hydraulic line or piston or a sticking solenoid check valve ...

Your guy sees $$$$$