Solar charging

In putting my plan together I started with the highest energy demand appliance and answered my own questions. The cheapest thing to do is build your system with a plan so you dont gather a collection of discarded components.

Number one question is do I want to be able to run my AC, even if only for short breaks at rest areas? Yes I do so I had to have a generator. My ac is 13,500 so a Honda 3000 works. Then you get into what generator to use. I didn't want to drag one heavy one or 2 that have to be paralleled out of over and over so I mounted the remote start Honda in the truck bed. I also built an insulated and ventilated metal cabinet for it. Very theft proof.

This is the key point that ties into solar. If you want ac, you wont be doing it with solar. Yes it is doable, but not practical so why waste time on it.

If you dont want to use your ac then you can invert to your other large draw appliances like hair dryers, toasters and microwaves. It will take a large inverter and good ones are pricey. With a large inverter you will need a minimum of four 6 volt deep cycle batteries. Some folks even go to 6 batteries. Search and read more about the peukert (?) effect to understand what high draw vs time do to battery performance.

I chose to power all my heavy draw appliances with the generator so I only needed a small inverter. Because the Honda is remote start my DW can hit the fob and do whatever she needs.

I have a xantrex 600 watt pure sine inverter for the 40" and 24" TV's and other smaller stuff. I'm running 4 Sams club 6 volts. I have upgraded my converter to a Progressive Dynamics that will charge at 14.4 v

I also installed a 50 amp Quick Charge brand charger that top charges at 15.2 volts. NO it wont burn up the batteries. Mine are on the second season and I will post when they die. I ran on the generator last year and now installed 520 watts and a Bogart engineering solar control and Trimetric system monitor.

Again, the cheapest thing to do is define what you want and need and do it one time. You can do it a little at a time but it's still most efficient to follow a plan.

There are variables and no one answer fits everyone. There are many good components out there. If you do start out small on the solar, buy components that will let you expand. It doesn't have to be mppt either. Keep reading all you can as it will become more clear.

I would agree with Handybob that a system monitor is a good investment and it will pretty much guide you in how much solar you need. Search and read all of handybobs stuff.

Another data point:

I purchased Renogy 150 Watts 12 Volts Monocrystalline Solar Panel from Amazon earlier this year, hooked up to 2 "walmart" batteries. So far the solar panel has been able to keep the batteries topped up each day. I have not used it during the winter yet when I used the furnace more often - so I may need another solar panel.

I found changing to LED bulbs saved quite a lot of power.

Gerry

HI,

I lived full time in my RV for about 6 years. I have a 400 watt solar system that was installed between 1994 and 2000. I did not start full timing until 2006.

4 golf cart 6 volt batteries are plenty for any normal user. You really do not need to carry more batteries, just more solar panels if you find that you are running out of power daily.

You can buy a 140 watt solar panel from this place - 12 volt nominal, with a frame to mount to the roof, and only around $229 a few weeks ago. SunElec.com

Some of the solar panels sold at Harbor Frieght, or some 'hyped up late night TV show' will be folding or perhaps walk on flexible cells. These are normally sold for close to $4 or $7 per rated watt, while the panels above is well under $2 per rated watt. Also the flexible cells take a lot more space to mount on the roof. Some have suggested gluing on the panels, however this will limit the heat lost - compared to a solar panel with 1" of air under it, and also it will shade the RV roof, keeping it cooler inside.

For mounts, I used 6" long aluminum 2" angle, about 1/4" thick (home Depot) and UV rated #10 wire from home Depot. You can run the wiring down the refrigerator vent of most RV'ss.

The 'solar option' that I have seen on my RV's seem to be based on 1997 prices for solar panels, in other words retail close to $4 per rated watt! Installed, I have seen a 100 watt solar option cost $855 or more!

100 watts is not enough. It will slow the discharge of the battery, but will not charge it well. Your RV will consumer 35 AH daily just to run the CO detector, propane leak detector, and the refrigerator. Each of my 120 watt panels can put out aboout 35 AH daily recharge, this stops the dishcarge, and can fully charge the battery on a long day, or bright sunshine found above 5,500' altitude.

Cooler air and higher altitude both will produce more power per hour, even more than the panel is rated at!

Good luck,

Fred.

100 watts minimum for the effort IMO. A good guideline is 100 watts per battery if you plan to camp off grid.

You will need panels and a controller.

Post the equipment or kit right here with your expectations for compatibility comments.

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Nice set up Onespeed, I have 300 watts flat mounted on the roof with only two 6v batteries. Next season I think we're going to be adding extra storage space. My solar works great but I need it to be sunny every day for it to keep up with our residential fridge right now. Off grid of course.

Dan

You are liable to get many comments with this query.

I will refrain from giving you any advise.

But I will tell you what I have done, and it has worked for years. Very happy.

Inverters

Batteries: 4 - 6 volt Trojans deep cycle
Solar: flat mounted on the roof - 220 W
Inverter/charger: 2800 W pure sine wave inverter/charger/battery monitor

All professionally installed.

Keep doing your research. Depends on your needs and your wallet.

Bellpr wrote:
The Better Half and I are looking at new 5ers. Most of them come with some sort of Solar Panel input connection. Does any one have any suggestions for installing solar panels and Batteries for a 5er? I've seen roof top panels and folding units you can stow away. Do I need 6v or 12v batteries? How do I figure out how much solar wattage I need? What other equipment do I need when I want to Use solar to charge the batteries?

It all depends on what you want to do and how you camp. If you're a boondocker or dry camp a lot, then you'll likely want multiple batteries, a good fairly large inverter, and some decent solar panels and charge controller. If all you want to do is to make sure your batteries are always topped up, then you can get buy on smaller, even portable, solar. We do only shorter boondockers, so my 45w Harbor Freight Special and 2 6v golf cart batteries work for us to extend us to about 4-5 days' camping. FWIW, when anyone asks about buying an RV, I almost always recommend 2 batteries, whether 12v or 6v.

Lyle