Spray Foam Undercoating / Insulation
Curious if anyone has done this here. Looking to get it done come spring time for potential winter use. cheers, Stk
Forum Discussion
Hi,
I don't skirt as I'm on the road too much.
I have looked into spray foam and have decided against it. I feel that high pressure spraying of slush from the road might well penetrate and then never dry out.
If planning on using lots of electric heat, then upgrade the "stab" connectors with real screw terminal outlets.
I solved the cold floor problem with electric heated carpets.
The safest heaters may be the oil filled units. The surface temperature doesn't get hot enough to scorch materials.
My waste tanks and valves are enclosed. Some one at the factory failed to install a heat duct. I added a 600 watt heater on a mechanical thermostat.
I replaced the cold air return grill with dual window fans. They are on a mechanical thermostat and keep the fresh water lines from freezing.
The peak electrical load is about 7000 watts. I added two auxiliary shore power cords which gives me OEM 30 amp, 20 amp, and 15 amp inputs. I power those from a 50 amp pedestal where I use a break out box to give me a 30 amp on one leg and dual 20 amp outlets on the other.
Remember that, for continuous duty, a 30 amp circuit should not be driven past 24 amps, 15 to 12 amps and 20 to 16 amps.
I am able to successfully heat 100% electrically, provided that there are adequate shore power outlets.
I have had occasion to use an autoformer to boost voltage during the winter months.
There is a great thread on winter camping in the full time forum.
I've used my RV wet at -37 c.
I don't skirt as I'm on the road too much.
I have looked into spray foam and have decided against it. I feel that high pressure spraying of slush from the road might well penetrate and then never dry out.
If planning on using lots of electric heat, then upgrade the "stab" connectors with real screw terminal outlets.
I solved the cold floor problem with electric heated carpets.
The safest heaters may be the oil filled units. The surface temperature doesn't get hot enough to scorch materials.
My waste tanks and valves are enclosed. Some one at the factory failed to install a heat duct. I added a 600 watt heater on a mechanical thermostat.
I replaced the cold air return grill with dual window fans. They are on a mechanical thermostat and keep the fresh water lines from freezing.
The peak electrical load is about 7000 watts. I added two auxiliary shore power cords which gives me OEM 30 amp, 20 amp, and 15 amp inputs. I power those from a 50 amp pedestal where I use a break out box to give me a 30 amp on one leg and dual 20 amp outlets on the other.
Remember that, for continuous duty, a 30 amp circuit should not be driven past 24 amps, 15 to 12 amps and 20 to 16 amps.
I am able to successfully heat 100% electrically, provided that there are adequate shore power outlets.
I have had occasion to use an autoformer to boost voltage during the winter months.
There is a great thread on winter camping in the full time forum.
I've used my RV wet at -37 c.
