Spring Replacement

john b wrote:

Vulcaneer wrote:
Are you sure you marked the location, before you started? If not, you are probably going to need an alignment. From your description it sounds like you did both springs on one side. Then will do both springs on the other side. You should do one axle and then the other. That way you could save the alignment.

I guess I don't understand this statement as all the mounts are predetermined..

No, they are not. The spring perch has a pin. The spring leaf has an over sized hole. This is so there can be perpendicular adjustment in the axles to the hitch socket/kingpin. The front axle is aligned to the center of the hitch socket (TT) or king pin (5'r). Then the rear axle is aligned to the front axle. Or can be laser aligned to the socket or king pin.

If you replace springs on both ends of one axle, you can use the center measurement of the other axle...which has a position that has remained constant. This can be done by cutting a 2x4 to the proper length and wedging it between the axles on one end. Then move it to the other end and set the other axle so it holds the board between. Use a jack to move the axle away, or a come along to move the axle closer.

If you replace both springs on one side of both axles, unless you mark the location of the axle, you have lost your perpendicularity to the socket/king pin. Not a big deal on one axle. But if a tandem axle, then the other axle will not be in alignment and will fight the other axle. One or two tires will wear very prematurely.

So once the springs are changed, best to get a good alignment. If not putting much mileage on each year, you could go some years before a problem with the tires. But there will be a problem at some point. But you really don't know if it will be sooner or later, until it is too late.

Just want to advise the OP that just changing springs, does not guarrantee there won't be other issues downstream.

Maybe view this thread