One of the leaf springs broke just as we turned on to our street on the way home form our last outing. I decided to replace all 4 springs since the 5th wheel is 19 years old. I ordered the parts from Arrow Trailer Supply in Ontario, California (knowledgeable, very good price and customer service).I'm a shade tree mechanic and have amassed a large collection of tools and equipment over the years. This was a good opportunity to use those tools and gain a feeling of accomplishment if I was successful in changing out the springs. Arrow Supply quoted a price of $312 to do the work but it would mean I would have to brace the axle with the broken spring and then tow through Los Angeles traffic about 30 miles to the shop. It was tempting but the Mr. FixIt in me decided I could do it.Last Saturday with full intentions of replacing the springs on both sides, repack the bearings and have everything done before days end, I went to the storage lot. I had to use a stack of 2X4s three levels high to get my jack stands to stabilize the frame.Long story short....it took the whole day to do one side and I was so sore and tired on Sunday that I decided to wait until this Saturday to do the other side. I'm thinking the $312 is a pretty good deal.But my Mr. FixIt is still telling me to think of the pride and accomplishment when both sides are done and I can say "I did it myself"....Saturday you will find me under the streetside of the 5th wheel.

With my vast equipment and know-how I could in twice the time.

What you need is what my wife gives me....medication......R&C(rum & coke)..... :)

I have learned that I am not as young as I use to be. If I think it is a day I prepare for three days. I did mine last year and it took 2whole weekend days and a couple week day evenings to replace all springs and equalizers and bearings and brakes. It also didn't help that it was in the low hundreds while doing it.

Are you sure you marked the location, before you started? If not, you are probably going to need an alignment. From your description it sounds like you did both springs on one side. Then will do both springs on the other side. You should do one axle and then the other. That way you could save the alignment.

Vulcaneer wrote:Are you sure you marked the location, before you started? If not, you are probably going to need an alignment. From your description it sounds like you did both springs on one side. Then will do both springs on the other side. You should do one axle and then the other. That way you could save the alignment.I guess I don't understand this statement as all the mounts are predetermined..

Spring Replacement | Good Sam Community

17 Replies

RCMAN46
Explorer
Jun 04, 2013
I have a friend that has a TT with a Lippert frame. He was having problems with tire wear. When he measured his spring hangers he foun the ones on the right side were 2 inches forward of the ones on the left side. I agree there is no adjustment. So he had to have the hangers cut off and welded back where they should have been. tire wear fixed. If the hangers are not where they belong the tires will not be in alignment. A bent axle is totally another problem that needs to be checked. This requires instruments most of us do not have. Thus need to go to a shop that has the instruments. But the location of the spring hangers only requires a tape measure and depending on the frame a plumb bob. I check my trailers when new so if the hangers are not correct I can file a claim to have them fixed.
Veebyes
Explorer II
Jun 04, 2013
Gitane 59, true, the only way to align wheels is to take it to a trailer shop & bend the axels. The axels sit on the pins & that is it. There is no adjustment outside of the spring U bolts.

Check them from time to time. They can get loose & ruin your day.
cwit
Explorer
Jun 04, 2013
Some people know how to read a book and other people now how or have done the job. I try to find the guy who has done the job, he tend to know what he's doing. Don't get me wrong book learning is great but hand's on experience is the best. If you don't have an alignment problem take it apart and put it back together. If you have an alignment that is out do a realignment.
gitane59
Explorer III
Jun 04, 2013
I changed all 4 of mine at once about 12K miles ago. The pin in the spring perch fit tightly in the hole in the new springs. There was no alignment adjustability anywhere in system system. The trailer tracked perfectly with no abnormal tire wear before the axle change and continues to perform perfectly after the axle change with not a single thought paid to axle alignment as it was not adjustable.
Vulcaneer
Explorer
Jun 04, 2013
RCMAN46 wrote:

I would recommend using a plumb bob and make a mark on the floor below the king pin. Then do the same at all 6 spring hangers. Then measure to each hanger mark from the king pin mark. Each side should be within 1/4 inch. Then measure distance between the hangers on each side. If they differ by more than 1/8 inch you may want to consider moving a hanger and if you are lucky only one will need to be moved. If they do not measure correct and you leave it as is you will know why the tires do not wear even and frequent rotation may extend the tire life.
I assume you have a Lippert frame. Lippert is famous for not getting the hangers correct.

This is actually good advice. But why not also measure your axle center too at the same time. Drop a plumb from the center of each of the wheels and mark them. Then measure that from your king pin center. If the measurements are with in an 1/8", you are good. What is important is where your wheels are. Not where the hangars are. So you MUST be able to adjust your axles perpendicularity, or parallelism to the other axle. But really the shackles attach to the spring and also the hanger. If the hanger is off location by a 1/4 inch the ANGLE of the shackle changes slightly to makes up the difference. But that does not move the wheel location. I don't regard hanger position as all that critical. But the wheel location is what is really critical.

Since it appears the OP did not mark the wheel or original axle alignment, RCMAN's plumb/marking technique is a pretty good home method of making sure the wheel alignment can be restored to being close to where it needs to be. And maybe close enough.

Just as a reference...my rear axles were 3/8" out of parallel with the front. Broke the spring and had it replaced in Statesville, NC. Repair house never aligned the axles. The rear tires wore out in 1500 miles. One on the inside. The other wore the outside. Rear tires were junk when I got to central NH. Just 3 days later.
RCMAN46
Explorer
Jun 03, 2013
the bear II wrote:
RCMAN46 wrote:
Good time to go with wet bolts.

I upgraded to the EZ-Flex equalizer and the kit comes with wet bolts as well as thicker shackles. I also upped from 3000 lb springs to 3500s since I had to replace. I'm looking forward to more stability and less bounce over big bumps.

On my frame/axles there's no way to change the alignment of the axles short of cutting off the spring hangars and moving them. Everything is predetermined with no provision for adjustment at the mounting points.

I would recommend using a plumb bob and make a mark on the floor below the king pin. Then do the same at all 6 spring hangers. Then measure to each hanger mark from the king pin mark. Each side should be within 1/4 inch. Then measure distance between the hangers on each side. If they differ by more than 1/8 inch you may want to consider moving a hanger and if you are lucky only one will need to be moved. If they do not measure correct and you leave it as is you will know why the tires do not wear even and frequent rotation may extend the tire life.
I assume you have a Lippert frame. Lippert is famous for not getting the hangers correct.
rhagfo
Explorer III
Jun 03, 2013
MC9 wrote:
With my vast equipment and know-how I could in twice the time.

:)

Pipeman wrote:
What you need is what my wife gives me....medication......R&C(rum & coke)..... :)

And two aspirin!!

:) :)

jjj wrote:
I have learned that I am not as young as I use to be. If I think it is a day I prepare for three days. I did mine last year and it took 2whole weekend days and a couple week day evenings to replace all springs and equalizers and bearings and brakes. It also didn't help that it was in the low hundreds while doing it.

When working on suspension the most important tool other than strong supports under the frame is a good air compressor and an impact wrench.
the_bear_II
Explorer
Jun 03, 2013
RCMAN46 wrote:
Good time to go with wet bolts.

I upgraded to the EZ-Flex equalizer and the kit comes with wet bolts as well as thicker shackles. I also upped from 3000 lb springs to 3500s since I had to replace. I'm looking forward to more stability and less bounce over big bumps.

On my frame/axles there's no way to change the alignment of the axles short of cutting off the spring hangars and moving them. Everything is predetermined with no provision for adjustment at the mounting points.
RCMAN46
Explorer
Jun 02, 2013
Good time to go with wet bolts.
Veebyes
Explorer II
Jun 02, 2013
Changed mine this spring. Upgraded from a 6 to 7 leaf. Normally I am a backyard 'do it myselfer' but this time the weather was cold & I was short on time so it was off to the local garage.

Having all the tools one could possibly need handy makes a difference. We had the springs changed & brakes checked in under 2 hours.