Superglide Install

I have a 16k SG in my 1999 F250 CC SB. It had been used to pick up then return the trailer by the original owner, then removed and stored indoors. I got it for $500 with all the pins and rails ( in bed) then purchased a set of no drill super rails. I drilled the bed after installing the rails. I sanded and scuffed the holes then cleaned with paint thinner then taped off around the holes and sprayed with a good coat of etching primer and then painted to match bed. If you do a neat drill smooth the holes and prime and paint with a brush. I had a bed mat in and the rails in the bed were high enough to keep it. I just cut X's for the pins. Pull the pins for the hitch and then the pins for the rails and it's a clean bed! I really like the SG, don't have to get out to release the hitch. You need to get the correct capture plate for the pin.
A word of advice, don't get the universal, make sure the CP is aligned on the pin box and the shims are tight. I had a few issues develope ( due to idiot drivers in small cars not paying attention) I have decided to refit the CP shims with steel instead of a combo of alum and steel, then weld them in. Also adding a full circuit weld of the pin box pocket ( outside). I didn't have helper springs on my truck so I added a set of air bags (spec'd for 5er application) both of these took only a couple of hours each in the summer outside. Also had to change out the 6 pin connector to a 7 pin in bed and bumper and a P3 brake controller. Good luck.
MikeH

Rich Grossmann wrote:
Have the Superglide and love it.......however.... I was not aware until after buying it that you cannot hitch or unhitch it if the your truck is at an angle more than 10 degrees.. that's a challenge sometimes in tight parking spots...... rich

It's sixteen degrees - not ten.
You can remove the head if necessary for greater than that.

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For the OP, "N-Trouble":
As others have indicated - not really difficult.
Never done one before - took about 4 hours, could probably do one in 2 hrs now.

In 2005, I installed a 3300 16K on my (new) '05 SB SRW Dodge.
Went very smoothly.
Think that's the older model (way tubes require lubrication) - prior to the newer model you purchased.
Used "under bed mounting" brackets, for a "clean bed" when hitch is removed.
No clue what poster is talking about in re: "floating the bed"..:h
(No need to unbolt or loosen any bed mounting bolts, etc.)

Hints:
Obviously, read the directions carefully before you begin.
Check your measurements twice.
Don't hesitate to call the Pullrite tech line if you have questions.

A "helper" is handy for moving the hitch around and for holding wrenches on opposite ends of bolts you are torquing.
Not necessary, but I put the rear of the truck up on jack stands, pulled off both rear wheels for easier access to the undercarriage.

Only drilling required (for Dodge) is for the 4 holes for the "mounting posts" through the bed.
Have a good (metal) hole saw for that.

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BTW - There was a poster on a thread like this a few years ago, who took his *NEW* D/Max to an "experienced" hitch installer. Whatever brand of hitch it was, it required holes to be drilled in the frame.
Installer drilled holes in the wrong place..:(..:M

Lengthy discussion (posts on the forum) about what to do.
Fortunately, the installer found a different brand of hitch that utilized the holes they had already drilled.

So much for "professionals"!.:R
IMO - my preference = DIY - rather than have somebody else screw it up.

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Check out the Demco Super Slide. You don't need a capture plate. Each time you purchase a different 5er you won't need to get another $ 150.00 capture plate.

The Demco will be my next slider unit.

I had mine installed by the place I purchased from. $1300 installed.

I have done two mine was the first and it went smooth and took about 3.5 hrs and that included the air bags. the second was for my boys 2012 ford F150 that one took about the same time for the hitch and that thing is a monster 12k with a longer throw because of the very short bed. was harder then for my Dodge with the 6.5 ft. bed 16k. we put air bags in his the following day. they don't fit, the brackets are in the way. we had to trim the airbag bracket down and then we welded them to the SG bracket and they then worked perfect not a real do it yourselfer for most.

B.Sjulestad wrote:
I had mine installed by the place I purchased from. $1300 installed.

Yikes!.:)

Wow!

Holy hockmier, Batman - $600. an hour!!

.

I am prepping my TV with "industry standard" rails! With my Cousin last saturday we spent about 4 hours, with most of the time looking at the instruction sheets, checking things out, and we had to make a trip to the hardware store. Not very difficult, just wanted to be sure that all the "T"s crossed and the "I"s dotted so there are no surprises down the road! Good luck!

ol Bombero-JC wrote:

B.Sjulestad wrote:
I had mine installed by the place I purchased from. $1300 installed.

Yikes!.:)

Wow!

Holy hockmier, Batman - $600. an hour!!

.

That included the hitch

N-Trouble wrote:
Anyone do their own install and can comment on difficulty and time it took?

I'm looking at the 4100 (16K lb) model with underbed rail system. The entire package from Tweety's including capture plate is just over ~$1500 to my door.

Also if anyone has had theirs installed by a reputable shop what can you expect to pay?

I bought mine (4400 18K) from Tweety's too! Installed it by myself in about 4 hours. No sweat if your handy with tools.

Installing our in the driveway was how I justified the price of the hitch. Figured the labor cost I saved could go towards the price is the supergluide. Probably took me a full day spread over several evenings. Pretty straight forwar except for drilling the frame, that was a chore. Otherwise just follow the layout and measure, check and measure.