Forum Discussion

ralex's avatar
ralex
Explorer
Jun 13, 2014

TRAILER BRAKES

Guys, I am having trouble setting my brake controller. I have a 2013 Chevrolet Silverado 3500 HD with a factory installed brake controller. When I hook up my 5th wheel, am I supposed to set the brake control manually? I have tried to set it according to the owners manual, but for some reason, I am not getting any output. I went on a long trip, and I manually set the controller to 4.5. When I did this, I received an output reading on my controller when I put on my brakes. However, after checking my rig during a gas stop, I smelled something like burning rubber or oil. Am I doing the right thing by setting the controller manually? I sure would appreciate your help.


Rochelle Alexander
2013 Chevy Silverado 3500HD
2004 Jayco Legacy
Semper FI :C
  • just to add a little bit to what's been said. When i connect the trailer cord to the truck receptacle i get a message on the dash indicator (digital display at bottom of speedo) that says something like 'trailer connected'. I then squeeze the levers on the brake controller all the way together and should observe max braking action by seeing a segmented digital bar in the display go all the way across to the right. I then let go of the levers and put my foot on the brake. I should now see the digital bar go across in proportion to how hard i brake (i.e. the harder i push on the brake pedal the longer the bar gets). The '+' and '-' buttons on the brake controller are used to set the gain. Ideally you want the gain set so that neither the trailer or truck does the majority of the braking; kind of a shared effort. Hard to get it precise plus as you use the trailer and truck brakes their braking action changes (heat). I try to set my gain so that when i'm going 15-20 mph i can definitely feel trailer braking action (trailer becomes a drag on the truck). I then reduce the gain by 0.5 units and try again. If i don't feel a drag or it's minimal when braking i'll leave it there, but may adjust it while traveling depending on the braking action i'm getting. Usually though i just leave it at the original setting.
  • Mine stays at 5. Not overly aggressive but very positive trailer braking.

    From the smell could you have an issue with grease contaminated brake shoes?
  • Unless they have changed, newer GM vehicles IBC could not be used with ELECTRIC OVER HYDRAULIC (EOH) BRAKES. Are your brakes electric or EOH? Something else to check!
    Catfish
  • Rochelle

    When you say factory installed controller, I assume you mean the ITBC system the GM has used for several years. I have that on my truck and it is a great controller.

    You must manually set the gain. The higher the number the more voltage that will be supplied to the trailer's brakes. My trailer is about 12K and I set my controller at 5 and that seems to work very well. In a few cases where roads were steep and the traffic was heavy, I bumped it to 6. I wouldn't be surprised if 4.5 weren't exactly correct for your truck. Experiment with your setting,a little more, a little less (maybe 3.5), and see what the difference is. As you step on the brake harder and harder, you should see the DIC indicator move from left to right, showing that more and more voltage is being applied to the trailer brakes. When you think you have the correct setting, make a couple of emergency stops and see if you have the control you need. Of course, find the place to do this that doesn't have traffic to interfere with your testing.

    As for smells, it is possible that there are some brake problems on the trailer itself. New brakes smell more than old brakes. but you should be beyond that by now. First thing I would check is to make sure that your emergency cable hasn't been pulled and the brakes are being applied all the time. (I doubt this would be the case, but check just to be sure.) Second would be to have someone check the adjustment of the brake shoes. A trailer sales place (not an RV place) will likely be the cheapest and most experienced at this task. They can also check the function of controller and the brakes together, including checking the trailer's 7-way connector to your truck. It certainly is possible that there is a short from a battery+ wire to your braking system and that would also be part of the check.

    Another way to help sort out the problem is to use an infrared temp sensor to measure the temperature of each of your trailer hubs after you've stopped a couple of times. These temp sensors cost something less than $20, they have a laser pointer, and a readout of the temperature where the laser hits the object. The sensors is a great tool for everyone who tows a trailer. So easy to check hub temps when you stop for fuel. Your trailer hubs should be withing 15 to 20 degrees of being the same. If you see one that is substantially hotter, BINGO! you have found where the problem is. Just need to determine the cause.
  • Almost sounds like you have a brake dragging. Any of the wheels hotter than the others? The smell may be one or more of your brakes. Do you have a manual slider to actuate the brakes? One way to check your brake operation is at about 15-20 mph manually apply the trailer brakes; you'll get an idea of your braking action.