2004 HitchHiker II LS (34.5 RLTG)Three tanks; Solid (black) toilet waste, Body (grey) shower & bathroom sink waste, and Liquid (grey) kitchen sinks waste. Problem is kitchen sinks (Liquid tank) but I'm a'scared its going to take some work as I had a plumber snake the sinks line to get'em running but by end of next day they took an hour for 1/4 full sinks to drain. :( I've got a small hand hand cranked snake. Opinions on whether or not the blockage can be cleared with my little snake? I'm not going the call a plumber a second time! This will be a do-it-myself caper. Also water is dripping out from above the under-belly debris shield at a seam aft of what I assume is the cross member for the frame to step up to the bedroom floor level... Why would slow running sinks cause water to rise to where it would run. There's a vac breaker under the cabinets behind the sink plumbing. Took it out - inspected- functional - air only goes one way. There must be an overflow pipe out'a sight somewhere. I'm guessing it's location can only be determined by pulling down the debris shield. :h Also the open/close valve handles have broke free of the I-Beam anchors thru which they penetrate to the valve actuators at the tanks. Additionally two of them won't move. :M That should be repared. So, I have some reason let those shields down. fun fun fun . . .:Any comments will be much appreciated.

I'd try hot water and a plunger in the kitchen sink followed by a drain cleaner. The gate valves are easy to replace……just 4 nuts/ 4 bolts to remove……on each valve basic plumbing 101.

Have you gone up on roof and cleared the galley vent line? Could be obstructed by nests/debris or could have dropped down into tank. No venting.....no/slow draining.Remove vent cap...check if end of vent pipe is close to level of roof or is it several inches below roof line (dropped). Run garden hose down vent line and blast it with galley drain valve open. Check flow out drain line.The waste tank valves are cable operated........you will need to remove section of underbelly cover to access. (Can access via cutting a three-sided window/flap vs removing whole section)May be able to reattacth cable ends to valves........most likely have to replace all three waste valves.Should be one (1) 3" and two (2) 1 1/2" cable operated valves. Will need to measure cable length.There are NO overflows on waste tanks .....if you have waste liquid dripping down from underbelly then you have a leak on waste line.....could be drain line going into top of tank or drain line coming out of tank. Some use a rubber grommet on lines to top of tank. Drain lines are glued to fitting/tank.You will need to make access and find the leak.

Pete Peterson wrote:2004 HitchHiker II LS (34.5 RLTG)Three tanks; Solid (black) toilet waste, Body (grey) shower & bathroom sink waste, and Liquid (grey) kitchen sinks waste. Problem is kitchen sinks (Liquid tank) but I'm a'scared its going to take some work as I had a plumber snake the sinks line to get'em running but by end of next day they took an hour for 1/4 full sinks to drain. :( I've got a small hand hand cranked snake. Opinions on whether or not the blockage can be cleared with my little snake? I'm not going the call a plumber a second time! This will be a do-it-myself caper. Also water is dripping out from above the under-belly debris shield at a seam aft of what I assume is the cross member for the frame to step up to the bedroom floor level... Why would slow running sinks cause water to rise to where it would run. There's a vac breaker under the cabinets behind the sink plumbing. Took it out - inspected- functional - air only goes one way. There must be an overflow pipe out'a sight somewhere. I'm guessing it's location can only be determined by pulling down the debris shield. :h Also the open/close valve handles have broke free of the I-Beam anchors thru which they penetrate to the valve actuators at the tanks. Additionally two of them won't move. :M That should be repared. So, I have some reason let those shields down. fun fun fun . . .:Any comments will be much appreciated.There is a overflow line on the white (fresh) water tank. Water will drain out if the fresh water tank is full. Be carefull . . . putting too much water into the fresh water tank will cause it to expand, breaking the holding water straps.

ken burke wrote:Pete Peterson wrote:2004 HitchHiker II LS (34.5 RLTG)Three tanks; Solid (black) toilet waste, Body (grey) shower & bathroom sink waste, and Liquid (grey) kitchen sinks waste. Problem is kitchen sinks (Liquid tank) but I'm a'scared its going to take some work as I had a plumber snake the sinks line to get'em running but by end of next day they took an hour for 1/4 full sinks to drain. :( I've got a small hand hand cranked snake. Opinions on whether or not the blockage can be cleared with my little snake? I'm not going the call a plumber a second time! This will be a do-it-myself caper. Also water is dripping out from above the under-belly debris shield at a seam aft of what I assume is the cross member for the frame to step up to the bedroom floor level... Why would slow running sinks cause water to rise to where it would run. There's a vac breaker under the cabinets behind the sink plumbing. Took it out - inspected- functional - air only goes one way. There must be an overflow pipe out'a sight somewhere. I'm guessing it's location can only be determined by pulling down the debris shield. :h Also the open/close valve handles have broke free of the I-Beam anchors thru which they penetrate to the valve actuators at the tanks. Additionally two of them won't move. :M That should be repared. So, I have some reason let those shields down. fun fun fun . . .:Any comments will be much appreciated.There is a overflow line on the white (fresh) water tank. Water will drain out if the fresh water tank is full. Be carefull . . . putting too much water into the fresh water tank will cause it to expand, breaking the holding water straps.On a HH II the fresh water tank overflow is thru a line that is extended out of underbelly behind rear wheel. Fresh water tanks are fully strapped.....can travel with a full tank.Water dripping from seal of underbelly needs to be accessed and identified/fixed.

waste water holding tank(s) inspection | Good Sam Community

Pete_Peterson
Explorer
Sep 29, 2015
wing_zealot wrote:
Pete Peterson wrote:

Also the open/close valve handles have broke free of the I-Beam anchors thru which they penetrate to the valve actuators at the tanks. Additionally two of them won't move.
How do you drain your tanks if the handles won't move?
wing_zealot
Explorer
Sep 29, 2015
Pete Peterson wrote:

Also the open/close valve handles have broke free of the I-Beam anchors thru which they penetrate to the valve actuators at the tanks. Additionally two of them won't move.
How do you drain your tanks if the handles won't move?
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Sep 29, 2015
ken burke wrote:
Pete Peterson wrote:
2004 HitchHiker II LS (34.5 RLTG)

Three tanks; Solid (black) toilet waste, Body (grey) shower & bathroom sink waste, and Liquid (grey) kitchen sinks waste.

Problem is kitchen sinks (Liquid tank) but I'm a'scared its going to take some work as I had a plumber snake the sinks line to get'em running but by end of next day they took an hour for 1/4 full sinks to drain. :(

I've got a small hand hand cranked snake.
Opinions on whether or not the blockage can be cleared with my little snake?

I'm not going the call a plumber a second time! This will be a do-it-myself caper.

Also water is dripping out from above the under-belly debris shield at a seam aft of what I assume is the cross member for the frame to step up to the bedroom floor level...

Why would slow running sinks cause water to rise to where it would run. There's a vac breaker under the cabinets behind the sink plumbing. Took it out - inspected- functional - air only goes one way. There must be an overflow pipe out'a sight somewhere. I'm guessing it's location can only be determined by pulling down the debris shield. :h

Also the open/close valve handles have broke free of the I-Beam anchors thru which they penetrate to the valve actuators at the tanks. Additionally two of them won't move. :M That should be repared. So, I have some reason let those shields down.

fun fun fun . . .:

Any comments will be much appreciated.

There is a overflow line on the white (fresh) water tank. Water will drain out if the fresh water tank is full.
Be carefull . . . putting too much water into the fresh water tank will cause it to expand, breaking the holding water straps.

On a HH II the fresh water tank overflow is thru a line that is extended out of underbelly behind rear wheel.
Fresh water tanks are fully strapped.....can travel with a full tank.

Water dripping from seal of underbelly needs to be accessed and identified/fixed.
ken_burke
Explorer
Sep 29, 2015
Pete Peterson wrote:
2004 HitchHiker II LS (34.5 RLTG)

Three tanks; Solid (black) toilet waste, Body (grey) shower & bathroom sink waste, and Liquid (grey) kitchen sinks waste.

Problem is kitchen sinks (Liquid tank) but I'm a'scared its going to take some work as I had a plumber snake the sinks line to get'em running but by end of next day they took an hour for 1/4 full sinks to drain. :(

I've got a small hand hand cranked snake.
Opinions on whether or not the blockage can be cleared with my little snake?

I'm not going the call a plumber a second time! This will be a do-it-myself caper.

Also water is dripping out from above the under-belly debris shield at a seam aft of what I assume is the cross member for the frame to step up to the bedroom floor level...

Why would slow running sinks cause water to rise to where it would run. There's a vac breaker under the cabinets behind the sink plumbing. Took it out - inspected- functional - air only goes one way. There must be an overflow pipe out'a sight somewhere. I'm guessing it's location can only be determined by pulling down the debris shield. :h

Also the open/close valve handles have broke free of the I-Beam anchors thru which they penetrate to the valve actuators at the tanks. Additionally two of them won't move. :M That should be repared. So, I have some reason let those shields down.

fun fun fun . . .:

Any comments will be much appreciated.

There is a overflow line on the white (fresh) water tank. Water will drain out if the fresh water tank is full.
Be carefull . . . putting too much water into the fresh water tank will cause it to expand, breaking the holding water straps.
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Sep 29, 2015
Have you gone up on roof and cleared the galley vent line?
Could be obstructed by nests/debris or could have dropped down into tank. No venting.....no/slow draining.
Remove vent cap...check if end of vent pipe is close to level of roof or is it several inches below roof line (dropped). Run garden hose down vent line and blast it with galley drain valve open. Check flow out drain line.

The waste tank valves are cable operated........you will need to remove section of underbelly cover to access. (Can access via cutting a three-sided window/flap vs removing whole section)

May be able to reattacth cable ends to valves........most likely have to replace all three waste valves.Should be one (1) 3" and two (2) 1 1/2" cable operated valves. Will need to measure cable length.

There are NO overflows on waste tanks .....if you have waste liquid dripping down from underbelly then you have a leak on waste line.....could be drain line going into top of tank or drain line coming out of tank.
Some use a rubber grommet on lines to top of tank. Drain lines are glued to fitting/tank.
You will need to make access and find the leak.
GON2SKI
Explorer
Sep 29, 2015
I'd try hot water and a plunger in the kitchen sink followed by a drain cleaner. The gate valves are easy to replace……just 4 nuts/ 4 bolts to remove……on each valve basic plumbing 101.
CarlT100
Explorer
Sep 29, 2015
Sounds like a project to me!

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