water heater anode rod

Dutchman... the word “spew” was the first word that came to mind to describe the flow as “Drip” did not seem adequate. To be clear the relief valve only drips an the end of a heating cycle which seems “normal” and according to the manual expected and describes a temporary remedy. I have done the steps described from the manual and the various threads on the subject on this forum over the years. I have replaced the relief valve thrice times and not much help. Recently I actually got through three days worth of heating cycles with no drip but low and behold it starts. The manual suggests that if the normal procedures don’t work perhaps I should install small pressure tank just before where the cold water enters the heater. Again this indicates to me that Suburban knows it’s a problem (probably not much more than an annoyance) and have chosen not to engineer a permanent remedy. We did this to some degree when working for a software company when a customer would find a problem. We would devise a workaround until we could solve the actual problem. But we usually did go fix it.

On edit: I tested the water temp at my kitchen sink which sits about a foot above the wh and it was dead on factory spec.