Forum Discussion

Poppy_s_5th_Whe's avatar
Dec 01, 2013

Wheel/Brake/Bearing Question

Hi All,

I was having some poor braking on our last trip so, after scolding myself for failing to adjust the brakes or lube the bearings since we got the trailer (probably 12,000 miles ago) I decided to adjust the brakes and lube the bearings (I have the E-Z Lube bearings).

I got the trailer jacked and I noticed a lot of play in the wheel. By play I mean that if you have your hands at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock you can get a considerable amount of wobble out of the wheel. I tried both wheels on the drivers side and they both had play.

I went ahead and lubed the rear wheel first and it took a whole 12.5 oz tube before I got fresh lube coming out. I had hoped that might solve my problem but, of course, no such luck.

I went ahead and adjusted the brakes on both DS wheels but didn't lube the second wheel yet until I find out what my problem is. OR, if it is normal on a trailer to have that much play.

So my questions are
1.) is there normally some play in the wheel on trailers? (I suspect not)
2.) if not, do you think my problem is that I need entirely new bearings? (I suspect so)

I race a corvette and if my wheel has play like that, I need to replace the whole hub assembly as they do not have serviceable bearings.
  • Gib3633 wrote:
    Much as I hate I have to ask. PS. I know fifth wheels don't have rear ends. Why is it that axle bearings NEED freeplay when Pinion bearing have a preload of 50 inch lbs of rolling torque just 3 feet from the axle bearings. Pinion bearings often last half a million miles with only a couple of oil changes. I know you can't allow the pinion to walk back and forth in the crown gear . The carrier bearings also have preload . That said my vote is with Scott G.


    With thinking like that, your mechanic must love you.
  • After reading thru this thread, the thought comes to mind that it is no winder that it seems to be common for camper wheel bearings to have problems. :S
  • Years ago when I was maintaining large aircraft which had their bearings mounted in the wheel hubs, when changing a wheel we torqued the retaining nut to a number I can't remember while turning the wheel to seat the bearings, then we loosened it right off. Finger tightened, then backed it off until we could install the locking bolt. They used a bolt and lock nut instead a cotter pin. Only enough grease was used pack and coat the bearing itself.

    Years later when I started RV'ing, it turned out Dexter's recommended procedure is essentially the same. Go figure.
  • Vulcaneer: If you don't like others opinions maybe you should put a list of those welcome to join in. Just for your info on full floating axles they also run in oil. My 2000 Freightliner with 17,500 rear end at 35,000 miles needed rotors. Before I dismantled just for my own curiosity I checked for freeplay in the bearings and they had slight preload. I changed seals and adjusted again with slight preload and sold truck with 105,000 miles and it went from Niagara Falls to California trouble free. Just because you don't agree doesn't make you smart and me stupid. Incidently my mechanic at International ask me how I wanted my wheel bearings adjusted after he changed a wheel speed sensor.