Why is 5th wheel standard vs Gooseneck?

I am aware that a true gooseneck hitch may put too much stress on the FW frame causing damage to the frame. However, Reese makes the Reese Goose Box 5th-Wheel-to-Gooseneck Air Ride Coupler Adapter and Gen-Y makes the Executive Fifth-Wheel King Pin to Gooseneck Conversion which uses a rubber torsion and shock system instead of the air bag like the Goose Box. . The Reece Goose Box has been approved by Lippert and will not void the warranty. Lippert has not responded to Gen-Y in reference to voiding the warranty. Both systems cost about the same as a 5th wheel hitch.

I am close to deciding which 5th wheel I will purchase so, have been looking at the different gooseneck and 5th wheel hitch systems.

Thermoguy wrote:

4x4ord wrote:
As well as some of the reasons already mentioned favouring 5th wheel hitch I think making a hitching error with a ball hitch is more likely than with a 5th wheel coupler.

It seems like you have never hitched a gooseneck. You can't make a mistake. You drop the hitch on the ball and lock it in, you can't forget the jaws or have the jaws only latch part way. They also can't come undone. The ball is on there and the weight of the trailer holds it on. Not saying if you forget to lock it in, a bounce couldn't bounce it off, but just saying easier to hitch than a 5th wheel. I have moved my gooseneck trailer without latching it because it isn't going anywhere.

I have both a gooseneck horse trailer and a 5th wheel camper. I can say that they are different in the way the hitch and haul. I totally agree with everyone that says the frame of the 5th wheel can not withstand the force of the pull direction from the gooseneck hitch. I looked at both hitch types initially but a friend told me they bent their frame with a gooseneck adapter and their trailer is smaller than mine. I went with the B&W companion and can remove it to hitch the gooseneck. I also have a clean bed when the hitch is removed so best of both worlds. The only complaint is the weight of the base of the B&W. But, I can lift it and move it forward to haul the gooseneck or remove it if I won't be hauling the 5th wheel for a while. It's removed all winter. The experience I have, I would not use a gooseneck adapter. Now if someone can just come up with a way I can haul both trailers at the same time, I would be in heaven.

I tow more gooseneck trailers than fifth wheels. You mention the problem with the gooseneck ..... forget to lock the ball. Or intentionally not lock the ball. There is also the possibility of accidentally using a 2 5/15 ball on a 3 inch coupler. I was lazy once and didn’t lock the ball on a gooseneck that I was just going to move a few feet. Turns out I got stuck .... then pulled on the front of my truck and the coupler bounced off the ball. I was fortunate that minimal damage was done.

Ever wondered why they are called FWs and not goosenecks.

4x4ord wrote:
As well as some of the reasons already mentioned favouring 5th wheel hitch I think making a hitching error with a ball hitch is more likely than with a 5th wheel coupler.

It seems like you have never hitched a gooseneck. You can't make a mistake. You drop the hitch on the ball and lock it in, you can't forget the jaws or have the jaws only latch part way. They also can't come undone. The ball is on there and the weight of the trailer holds it on. Not saying if you forget to lock it in, a bounce couldn't bounce it off, but just saying easier to hitch than a 5th wheel. I have moved my gooseneck trailer without latching it because it isn't going anywhere.

I have both a gooseneck horse trailer and a 5th wheel camper. I can say that they are different in the way the hitch and haul. I totally agree with everyone that says the frame of the 5th wheel can not withstand the force of the pull direction from the gooseneck hitch. I looked at both hitch types initially but a friend told me they bent their frame with a gooseneck adapter and their trailer is smaller than mine. I went with the B&W companion and can remove it to hitch the gooseneck. I also have a clean bed when the hitch is removed so best of both worlds. The only complaint is the weight of the base of the B&W. But, I can lift it and move it forward to haul the gooseneck or remove it if I won't be hauling the 5th wheel for a while. It's removed all winter. The experience I have, I would not use a gooseneck adapter. Now if someone can just come up with a way I can haul both trailers at the same time, I would be in heaven.

How many tractor and trailers do you see with a goose hitch? I can hitch a 5th wheel with a sleeper cab, first time every time. Try that with a goose.

The fifth wheel really spreads the forces. Fontaine or Holland can't be beat, and will pull for 20 years with no fuss.

Durb wrote:
I have a trailer Saver now (TS3). If I were to make a change I would consider the Goose Box as it has some real design advantages. The attachment point to the truck is low reducing the hitch angle which reduces the amount of chucking forces relative to bouncing forces created by the trailer. Consider the Goose Box image; the forward high hinge point relative to the ball will allow the hitch to retract some when compressed thus mitigating some chucking forces. Solid engineering was used when designing the box.

Any type of soft joint hitch/pin box has to be easier on the trailer frame than a solid hitch and solid pin box.

Yes But the long shaft of the adapter will always create more leverage on the pin box. I don't think I can consider the Goose box a foolproof advantage for 5th wheel towing unless the pin box attachment to the fiver is also altered and reinforced in someway.
A long pipe on a pipe wrench will always create more force/leverage on that lug nut and allow you to turn the nut vs. a wrench with no extension.
Air cushioning and absorption are secondary factors.

I have a trailer Saver now (TS3). If I were to make a change I would consider the Goose Box as it has some real design advantages. The attachment point to the truck is low reducing the hitch angle which reduces the amount of chucking forces relative to bouncing forces created by the trailer. Consider the Goose Box image; the forward high hinge point relative to the ball will allow the hitch to retract some when compressed thus mitigating some chucking forces. Solid engineering was used when designing the box.

Any type of soft joint hitch/pin box has to be easier on the trailer frame than a solid hitch and solid pin box.

StirCrazy wrote:

work2much wrote:

wowens79 wrote:
Why is a gooseneck harder on the trailer frame than a 5er? Is it because the length of the neck down to the ball is longer than a 5er?
We are thinking of going from a TT to a 5er, and just trying to learn.

It isn't with a modern gooseneck adaptor like a Reese Goose Box.

it would have to be to maintin the trailer high while mounting in the ball in the floor of the bed. your mising the whole hight of the 5th wheel hitch it has to make up for.

Steve

The additional torque of a gooseneck adapter would be greatest during acceleration and deceleration. But the air bag, shock absorbers, and rubber bumpers of a Goosebox would soften that impact vs a rigid gooseneck adapter.

Michelle.S wrote:
Not everyone has all the cameras, but I can see my fifthwheel hitch in my rear view mirror, but not the floor of the bed.

I agree, fifth wheel hitches are by nature are easier to hitch. Don't have to over raise the fifth like a gooseneck or be concerned about to far forward or backward, chains etc. Plus my fifth wheel hitch breaks down into easily manageable pieces if I need to quickly take it out.

If I were to do any sort of gooseneck type it would be a Reese Goosebox. Goose neck extensions and the Andersen types have no appeal to me.

Dan

Not everyone has all the cameras, but I can see my fifthwheel hitch in my rear view mirror, but not the floor of the bed.