WINTER/CUSTOM BUILD???
First off…if this is not the right forum please move it or advise me where to post.
I had a KZ toy hauler for 3 years and loved it but now I need to haul a car and 3-4 snowmobiles in the winter with reasonable comfort down to 0 degrees. Boondocking for 3-4 days. I learned what to do and not do with the last trailer and I want to begin with a used @26' car hauler preferably aluminum and stripped inside.
INSULATION
This is not about looks…only functionality. Since the beams in trailer walls are not very thick I thought I would use over speced foam or possibly fiberglass insulation and maybe even tyvek to seal it up. I do not need solid walls…or maybe only in the areas where things need to be attached to the wall. I will install some windows and if they are not too much more get double pane or just tape bubble wrap over the windows. I will have a 12v range hood fan and 2 fantastic fans front and back to remove moisture.
What insulation to use?
What about the floor?…how to insulate from the bottom exterior?
PLUMBING
I plan to wall in the front 5' for bathroom with a toilet and shower and have a kitchen sink in the outside of this wall. I want the 30 gallon black and 30 gallon grey tanks above the floor level inside a platform. This is not an issue with a toilet but a shower is a height problem. I'm 6'1" and in the KZ I had a clear bubble above the shower that made me fit. I have found a 30 gallon tank that is only 7" high. I know there are trailers with extra height but I do not want to order a new trailer.
Bubbles for over shower? Sources?
If a tank is only 7" high how can level sensors work?
So my theory was to make a frame that holds the tanks 2 inches above the floor and have venting on the platform to allow heat through. That way they will not freeze by touching the floor. I do not want to run tank heaters as they draw down the 4 6v house batteries too much over 10 hour days. I want the tanks to not freeze.
Can the drains have only a slight angle down to the side of the trailer? There will be a insulated compartment door to open to access the drains.
Would a macerator pump or something like that be needed since I am not draining from the bottom?
HOT WATER
http://amzn.to/1dk0cO3
can be drained for quick winterizing and has vent
FRESH WATER
will draw from 2 15 gallon plastic drums or 7 gallon aquatainers as needed…all interior and strapped to the wall.
All water lines will be run along the top of the wall and easily accessed. A 12v pump will run everything. Just suck in some pink when not in use and start with 2 gallons of pink in each tank against the valves.
HEAT
Suburban furnace 30-40k (set low when out riding) This will be located near the tanks.
Kimberly wood stove with fresh air inlet (if I can afford it) for evenings
Any advice on any of this appreciated…thanks.
I had a KZ toy hauler for 3 years and loved it but now I need to haul a car and 3-4 snowmobiles in the winter with reasonable comfort down to 0 degrees. Boondocking for 3-4 days. I learned what to do and not do with the last trailer and I want to begin with a used @26' car hauler preferably aluminum and stripped inside.
INSULATION
This is not about looks…only functionality. Since the beams in trailer walls are not very thick I thought I would use over speced foam or possibly fiberglass insulation and maybe even tyvek to seal it up. I do not need solid walls…or maybe only in the areas where things need to be attached to the wall. I will install some windows and if they are not too much more get double pane or just tape bubble wrap over the windows. I will have a 12v range hood fan and 2 fantastic fans front and back to remove moisture.
What insulation to use?
What about the floor?…how to insulate from the bottom exterior?
PLUMBING
I plan to wall in the front 5' for bathroom with a toilet and shower and have a kitchen sink in the outside of this wall. I want the 30 gallon black and 30 gallon grey tanks above the floor level inside a platform. This is not an issue with a toilet but a shower is a height problem. I'm 6'1" and in the KZ I had a clear bubble above the shower that made me fit. I have found a 30 gallon tank that is only 7" high. I know there are trailers with extra height but I do not want to order a new trailer.
Bubbles for over shower? Sources?
If a tank is only 7" high how can level sensors work?
So my theory was to make a frame that holds the tanks 2 inches above the floor and have venting on the platform to allow heat through. That way they will not freeze by touching the floor. I do not want to run tank heaters as they draw down the 4 6v house batteries too much over 10 hour days. I want the tanks to not freeze.
Can the drains have only a slight angle down to the side of the trailer? There will be a insulated compartment door to open to access the drains.
Would a macerator pump or something like that be needed since I am not draining from the bottom?
HOT WATER
http://amzn.to/1dk0cO3
can be drained for quick winterizing and has vent
FRESH WATER
will draw from 2 15 gallon plastic drums or 7 gallon aquatainers as needed…all interior and strapped to the wall.
All water lines will be run along the top of the wall and easily accessed. A 12v pump will run everything. Just suck in some pink when not in use and start with 2 gallons of pink in each tank against the valves.
HEAT
Suburban furnace 30-40k (set low when out riding) This will be located near the tanks.
Kimberly wood stove with fresh air inlet (if I can afford it) for evenings
Any advice on any of this appreciated…thanks.
