How you heatin?

Hi harold,

Since I posted on page 2 with a perfectly adequate solution which works in real life testing down to -36 c (-33 F), I'd have to say you are the one who has interrupted.

Pay back on a stand alone heater, where I live, is about one week, not three years.

harold1946 wrote:
I know your stance, you have stated it in several other threads you have interupted

pianotuna wrote:
Hi harold,

You know very well my stance on the "cheap heat (NOT)" system. Too bad you choose to NOT share your extensive factual knowledge and real life experience of the system with others. I share it with thiose that need the information.

I have done more than one "back yard" experiment to show how many watts are needed to heat a class C. Where are your results? I do not doo back yard experiments, I do real life traveling all over north and central America.

My needs are pretty much identical with anyone who uses their RV in extreme cold. You do not do that, and it is great that you don't have to, because the system might just fall short of the needs. You must also be psysic. How is it that you know where I may or may not be?

For example last night at 1 a.m. the campground power went off. First my inverter picked up the load, then after that the furnace cut in.

It was -23 C (-9.4 f) outside. That would be enough to freeze up the entire rv quite quickly, if I had no "fail over" in place. Because I do, I slept right through the night.

[COLOR=]So did I. Use your psysic powers to figure out where I am.
Hint; The outside temp is 41C.
I know your stance, you have stated it in several other threads you have interupted and I do not care about your stance.
I share my experiences with those interested by PM or e-mail to avoid those that seem to enjoy disrupting discussions with no pertinent information.
You have no need for that information.
I will give you this much: The system paid for itself within three years and it has been used in temperatures as low as -14F in Whitehorse. In your metric world that would be -25.555556 if I did the conversion correctly. Not extreme but chilly.
Its wonderful that you system meets your needs, mine does the same for me.
One thng that is apparent is that those who think they know it all about the system are a hindrence to to those of us that do and have installed many and personaly used it. I have and will assisted anyone with choosing the configuration that suits their individual needs.
I will banty with you no longer. You have no useful information. :B

Hi harold,

You know very well my stance on the "cheap heat (NOT)" system. Too bad you choose to NOT share your extensive factual knowledge and real life experience of the system with others.

I have done more than one "back yard" experiment to show how many watts are needed to heat a class C. Where are your results?

My needs are pretty much identical with anyone who uses their RV in extreme cold. You do not do that, and it is great that you don't have to, because the system might just fall short of the needs.

For example last night at 1 a.m. the campground power went off. First my inverter picked up the load, then after that the furnace cut in. It was -23 C (-9.4 f) outside. That would be enough to freeze up the entire rv quite quickly, if I had no "fail over" in place. Because I do, I slept right through the night.

pianotuna wrote:
Hi harold,

No, thanks. The cheap heat system (which is ANYTHING but cheap, even if you DIY) does not come close to being suited to my needs. If you wish to correct my statements feel free. But when I last looked during previous discussions my statements were accurate.

harold1946 wrote:
I suggest more research. Two of your statements are wrong. You figure out which ones.

Your statement; "does not come close to being suited to my needs" is the key phrase. That in no way has anything to do with anyone elses want or needs.
I would expect that one would venture to help, not hinder the exchange if information.
I am not trying to convince anyone or sell anyone on the system, only give factual information , not guesswork.
Maybe it is asking too much to expect the same from others.
:@

We we were concerned about frozen plumbing and consulted Monaco support. They advised that running the furnace would help protect the systems by keeping the basement warm. So we are using the electric heat and a couple of ceramic heaters down to about 28 degrees, and then firing up the furnace for the night but keeping it set pretty low - between 60 and 63 or whatever it takes to be just comfortably cool. We also have an electric mattress pad but don't need to set it very high. Also two warm little furbodies in bed with us don't hurt any.

Hi harold,

No, thanks. The cheap heat system (which is ANYTHING but cheap, even if you DIY) does not come close to being suited to my needs. If you wish to correct my statements feel free. But when I last looked during previous discussions my statements were accurate.

harold1946 wrote:
I suggest more research. Two of your statements are wrong. You figure out which ones.

pianotuna wrote:
Hi Phil,

You can not run cheap heat system and the furnace at the same time. It is either/or not both at once.

As it comes from the maker, it will not switch over to the propane furnace if the power goes off. They do not offer an add on kit to make this possible. One has to design a circuit and add a relay to do so.

They do have a model that is wired to work with 30 amp RV's. But it can not be used at all if the shore power is only 15 amps.

As Harold points out the 30 amp version can be wired to use a 50 amp pedestal. However they don't offer a kit to do so.

The 30 amp version will not meet the heating needs of the climate where I live. It is a bit better than a heat strip, because it offers more wattage and the heat does come from the regular heat vents.

In "the only game in town" rv park I am in, they would charge me extra for a 50 amp and a 30 amp connection to their pedestals. In fact they even charge extra if you plug into 30 amp and 20 amp at the same time. Fortunately I have a 50 amp "break out box" that allows me to use both legs of the 50 amp service on my modified RV.

In short, a 30 amp rv may be better off with a space heater, and it is certainly cheaper to do so than to modify the furnace by adding the "cheap heat" system.

I suggest more research. Two of your statements are wrong. You figure out which ones.

I believe that the vast majority of the RVers have the common sense to switch the system to PL if there is any question of possible power loss or if the electric heating is not adequate.
I also believe there are very few that routinely camp in sub freezing temperatures.
The "fail over" circuitry can be be done for less than $20.00 if one feels it is necessary or desirable.

Hi Phil,

You can not run cheap heat system and the furnace at the same time. It is either/or not both at once.

As it comes from the maker, it will not switch over to the propane furnace if the power goes off. They do not offer an add on kit to make this possible. One has to design a circuit and add a relay to do so.

They do have a model that is wired to work with 30 amp RV's. But it can not be used at all if the shore power is only 15 amps.

As Harold points out the 30 amp version can be wired to use a 50 amp pedestal. However they don't offer a kit to do so.

The 30 amp version will not meet the heating needs of the climate where I live. It is a bit better than a heat strip, because it offers more wattage and the heat does come from the regular heat vents.

In "the only game in town" rv park I am in, they would charge me extra for a 50 amp and a 30 amp connection to their pedestals. In fact they even charge extra if you plug into 30 amp and 20 amp at the same time. Fortunately I have a 50 amp "break out box" that allows me to use both legs of the 50 amp service on my modified RV.

In short, a 30 amp rv may be better off with a space heater, and it is certainly cheaper to do so than to modify the furnace by adding the "cheap heat" system.

pnichols wrote:

pianotuna wrote:
The cheap heat system is either/or and as sold OEM can not use the propane furnace as a back up, should shore power fail. It can not be used to supplement the propane furnace.

This link does not leave me with that impression. From what they say, it looks like they have models that allow existing propane furnace models to be used on either propane or with a heating element replacing a gas flame - switch controlled. They have models for only 30 amp RVs. They have models for ducted or central propane furnaces. You have to read everything at this link - the FAQs, the compatibility chart, etc.. Obviously the models that allow leaving your RV in only a 30 amp configuration will not heat larger 30 amp RVs well below certain outside temperatures, as it takes many amps to equal the 25,000 BTU-on-up outputs of regular RV propane furnaces. However I'd like to have even only 5000 electric BTUs coming out of my propane furnace's ducts at times instead of out of only a portable electric heater sitting on the floor - in the way underfoot and not warming my hidden fresh water lines in the interior cabinets and voids. What would be ideal is to have a 30 amp model installed that would allow BOTH the electric element being turned on WHILE the propane mode of the furnace was in use, thus reducing propane consumption while at the same time getting high BTU output:
http://www.rvcomfortsystems.com/

The addition of a relay,(not included in the kit) will create a fail over system that allows it to automaticaly revert to LP if there is a power failure.

If desired, with the addition of a 50 amp power cord connected directly to the system power control panel, one can take full advantage of the BTU available. This will not interfear with the existing 30 amp powered RVs system.