Forum Discussion
j-d
Jul 12, 2016Explorer II
Welcome to RV.net!
This RV.net Thread will get you through it.
Yes, add a new vacuum canister and check valve. You can do with just a vacuum line, but the A/C will divert to Defrost on acceleration or a grade.
This BATauto.com Thread has more detail, and illustrates how much unneeded work I went to before determining the problem was buried in HVAC cabinet.
Easiest thing: Buy a 6-ft lenghth of Vacuum Hose. Cut the black tubing after the connection to red under the hood. Cut the black tubing in the passenger kick area. My pics show both. Connect from the connection at red and the cut piece inside that goes UP into the dash. Run engine at idle. All A/C modes should work. If so, there's no need to mess with instrument cluster bezel, passenger knee pad, etc etc. Just install a vacuum tank and check valve, fish vacuum hose down inside fender to door post, connect and you are done. Give due credit to ACME Company and it's Road Runner Bomb.
This RV.net Thread will get you through it.
Yes, add a new vacuum canister and check valve. You can do with just a vacuum line, but the A/C will divert to Defrost on acceleration or a grade.
This BATauto.com Thread has more detail, and illustrates how much unneeded work I went to before determining the problem was buried in HVAC cabinet.
Easiest thing: Buy a 6-ft lenghth of Vacuum Hose. Cut the black tubing after the connection to red under the hood. Cut the black tubing in the passenger kick area. My pics show both. Connect from the connection at red and the cut piece inside that goes UP into the dash. Run engine at idle. All A/C modes should work. If so, there's no need to mess with instrument cluster bezel, passenger knee pad, etc etc. Just install a vacuum tank and check valve, fish vacuum hose down inside fender to door post, connect and you are done. Give due credit to ACME Company and it's Road Runner Bomb.
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