30 AMP Quit? Source or not?

rv4jimnme..... every question you ask is important to you. Always ask, that's how I learned.

We have always kept our inverter on 24/7 in our previous coach for 7.5 yrs. Never a problem.

Our new coach has four 3,500 watt inverters that stay on 24/7. If we only have 30 amp., which I do in our storage garage, I have to set the system to 30 amp and the computer knows to cut off 2 or 3 of the inverters (not sure how many go off....still learning myself).

It does not hurt an inverter for it to stay on.

MM.

AllegroD wrote:
Couple of suggestions:
1. Get a 12v/120v voltmeter. Learn how to use it. This may sound blunt or snarky but not intended to be. An inexpensive volt meter can save a lot time in trouble shooting. A voltmeter can help trace electric flow from origin to appliance.
2. A converter or inverter can be anywhere. Many are under the sink. Many Inverter/chargers are in a bay. I suggest you get a manual and a person familiar with MH to help ID these things. Once found, check the circuit breakers. Reset them even if they o not look popped. They often don't appear to have popped.
3. Find out if you have an EMS. You can do some simple trouble shooting wothout IDing the EMS. Turn off shore circuit breaker(CB). Turn all internal house CB off. Turn on 1 CB at a time. Save the ACs for last. If something turns on the circuit is good, if it goes off after you turn on an AC, it is probably shedding a load for you, with priority to the AC.
4. Have you set all appliances that can be run on 12v & LP to LP only, such as your fridge? This could reduce the 120 draw and therefore the need to shed.

Blunt or Snarkey no problem! Going to show this to the man of the house evidently his volt meter only goes to 10 amps? Yes finally turned frig to LP, did reset all breakers I could find. Will try the shore CB thing, thankfully we are leaving for 50 amps soon! Your right manuals and service but the Manuals I have are lacking a lot of details namely geographically where anything is. This morning could not get propane heater to work or to blow really after shutting off shore CB and back on it took off...hum...Thanks!

Couple of suggestions:
1. Get a 12v/120v voltmeter. Learn how to use it. This may sound blunt or snarky but not intended to be. An inexpensive volt meter can save a lot time in trouble shooting. A voltmeter can help trace electric flow from origin to appliance.
2. A converter or inverter can be anywhere. Many are under the sink. Many Inverter/chargers are in a bay. I suggest you get a manual and a person familiar with MH to help ID these things. Once found, check the circuit breakers. Reset them even if they o not look popped. They often don't appear to have popped.
3. Find out if you have an EMS. You can do some simple trouble shooting wothout IDing the EMS. Turn off shore circuit breaker(CB). Turn all internal house CB off. Turn on 1 CB at a time. Save the ACs for last. If something turns on the circuit is good, if it goes off after you turn on an AC, it is probably shedding a load for you, with priority to the AC.
4. Have you set all appliances that can be run on 12v & LP to LP only, such as your fridge? This could reduce the 120 draw and therefore the need to shed.

Turn the inverter on and again, check the circuit breakers on the inverter itself. The inverter should be in the basement of your coach. What you are looking at is only the control panel.

Mr.Mark wrote:
rv4jimnme,

The transfer switch is in a metal box usually in one of the bays hanging on the side. It may or not have the name 'transfer switch' on the box. But, don't mess with it unless you are very familiar with electricity (call a professional).

I still strongly think it might be the breaker/breakers on the inverter. If you tried to run too many things on 30 amp, you can pop a breaker on the inverter or a house breaker or maybe on both.

Let us know what the outcome is.

Good luck,
MM.

Mr. Mark,
Sorry to be so dumb but I thought the converter or whatever that thing that is always running usually located under the kitchen stove area and is on all coaches? but on this coach I do have an Inverter and that is on the wall in the off position in the control panel.. because I thought inverter was only to be used when no shore power and you want to run say the microwave or vacumn and it would then draw from house battery. Ours in only 1,000 amp so I have little use for it. Have to get hubbie to help me read these. I appreciate all the help! We have just now sold our home and decided to full time again, and its going to take some getting used to especially with a Coach we are unfamiliar with...

rv4jimnme,

The transfer switch is in a metal box usually in one of the bays hanging on the side. It may or not have the name 'transfer switch' on the box. But, don't mess with it unless you are very familiar with electricity (call a professional).

I still strongly think it might be the breaker/breakers on the inverter. If you tried to run too many things on 30 amp, you can pop a breaker on the inverter or a house breaker or maybe on both.

Let us know what the outcome is.

Good luck,
MM.

If the panel you are looking at is the EMS, energy management system, it could shed loads as needed so that you do not exceed the 30 amp input. This would explain #2 AC without power, etc.

My panel only indicates the fridge water heater etc lights when plugged into 50 amps. When plugged into 30 amp these lights don't come on even though everything still works. The only thing we can't do is run both roof airs at once.

Thanks to all for your insights. I am going to print them out and see if anything works for us. Actually I am only the non techie wife so its hubbie and I trying to figure this out.
We cannot find any transfer switch anywhere.
We are in a visitor spot in a residential park so older pedestal and old old wiring and Maintenance knowing not knowing the difference between 50 am and 30 amp may or may not have anything to do with it.
The coach is getting 30 amps of electric we believe since the load indicator and the electric heater run it up to 30 and does not cut off.
The power supply lites however indicate no power going to the major items such as a/c #2, refrig, water heater are not on as they were for a few days.
Ok here is what I just remembered jeez. This Winnebago Adventurer Model 38T has basement air/heat pump. We were told that a electric heat pump will not work when temp goes below 40. I looked at the lows for this area and that may be part of the problem.
Actually Hubbie got the electric heat to come on in the afternoon yesterday but it would not come on this morning and so it could have been lower than the 46 degrees on accuweather where we are sitting.
Ok so now we have the propane heat on and it heats the bedroom and bathroom but little heat comes out here in the living area.
We move soon to 50 amp so will see what that does?
Of course I called the Dealer who sold me this and he said it worked on walk thru right? lol that will be a new thread and topic as soon as I am done with him. Thanks again.

One of the tools in my RV is an adapter that lets me plug a common 15 amp plug, Such as you would have on a table lamp, into a 30 amp outlet.

Another tool is an adapter that lets me plug say a 60 watt light bulb (or any other standard size base 120 volt lamp) into a 15 amp outlet, in fact I have several of those some corded (Trouble lamp) some not.

Plug into the park's outlet with such adapters, See if the light comes on, NO light, Problem identified as SOMEBODY ELSE's PROBLEM (the park's)

Bright light.. Keep looking.

Trouble and test lights are excellent tools for they test the circuit under LOAD.