32 ft class c a/c in the southern temps.

I am answering my own question with the only way I can keep the camper cool is add 2nd a/c with a separate plug in to the 20 amp side of the rv campground breaker box with its own cord. in Galveston county right now heat index is 110

We did a cross country trip this summer and the AC kept up just fine. From South Carolina humidity to Arizona heat. We close off the cab area with a thick curtain and cover the cab window with

One thing we did before the trip was have all the coach windows tinted with 95% UV blocking film. This helped out a lot with temp and with privacy.

Cab cover from Amazon (not my RV, the picture is from Amazon)


Windows tinted.

We can go into an "emergency cooling" mode with our small (24 foot) Class C with it's 13.5K A/C.

With three separate curtains we can close off the whole back corner bedroom area, the cab area, and the cabover bed area. The cut down area that's left with it's kitchen - one full size bed, and seating for five - should be able to be kept comfortable in just about any triple-digit temps with only the 13.5K A/C.

An important thing for cooling with existing A/C when push comes to shove, is to merely reduce the area to be kept cool.

IMHO!!! U will need 2 Ac'S.

Had a dark colored Class A, 2 AC, both running, bubble foil in all windows, would cool to high 80's in AZ sun @ 100 plus deg.
Class C, 1 AC, bubble foil in all windows, windshield covered, no shade, cools to high 80's in Las Vegas @ 105 deg plus. The South Point Casino saved us.
Lesson learned, stay along coast or in mountains, or plan on misery, with heat and AC noise.

j-d wrote:
A moving RV has tons of heat transfer. Very hard to beat the losses driving highway speed in beating sun.

While there is heat transfer, running the engine also means you have the use of a very powerful a/c driven by the engine. The base Ford system for instance is 48k BTU output, and they have models that go as high as 114k BTU. the problem is the fan in the dash can't move as much air as the system would require to utilize all that cooling power.

We help it along by opening the rearmost roof vent and setting the chassis a/c to dash output and pointing the air down the center of the coach. The open vent sucks the warmest air off the ceiling and by doing so pulls the cooled air farther back to replace it.

We just got back from a week at a Florida beach. Comfortable the whole time.

Privacy screen (home made from "privacy screening" from Lowe's

15000 A/C

A/C off to Microwave

Otherwise A/C plus only Coffee Maker --or-- Toaster

Electric Water Heater late night to early morning only - adequate hot water all day

And that was MAX - Tried Hair Drier with A/C and tripped 30A main breaker

"Comfortable" was upper 70's - A/C compressor ran pretty much full time morning to evening so if we wanted 72 we never would have reached it

Outdoor temps were in 90s with "feel like" 100s

wow, glad to hear these commits. I am wantimg to go to clas c..from camper pull...thanks...any one want to trade?

wbwood wrote:



Probably helps, but it looks ugly in the windows....lol

Windows are pretty darkly tinted, so you really can't even seen the reflective stuff very well. I understand that goes somewhat counter the point of "reflective", but this material is also insulating and it definitely helps.

In 2000, we had a 32' class A with basement air, it kept up in hot weather even in Las Vegas at 106.