8,000# hitch on new E-450 Chassis
It has recently come to my attention that all new Thor Motorhomes on the E-450 chassis built after 10/01/2014 come equipped standard with an 8,000 pound receiver hitch instead of the 5,000 pound hitch...
Forum Discussion
Mich, do you have a link that shows the Ford maximum tow ratings for their E-450 chassis?
All of my tow rating experience comes from trucks, and I've towed just about everything one can imagine at one time or another with trucks, both within manufacture specs and beyond. I'm well aware of the pitfalls of pulling a load that is beyond the capabilities of the tow vehicle.
Where I don't have experience is figuring out the tow capabilities of an RV, specifically a Class B+ or C. Where or how does one figure out such pitfalls or concern area of pushing the rated tow limit on one of these?
Obviously the hitch strength itself should be the first concern along with it's attachment point to the chassis. One has to assume if it's labeled at 8,000#, it'll tow, stop and handle that load safely.
The next concern would be the chassis itself...has it been modified (extended) by someone after it left the manufacturer and did this modification affect the manufacturer tow rating one way or the other? This is the big question mark for me...
Drivetrain, engine, trans, rear axle, rear springs all being rated to tow 7500-8000 from the chassis manufacturer...this is little concern to me. These things can all be upgraded if they lack just a little bit in driver comfort when towing close to the limit. I am not concerned about putting helper air bags on the rear suspension if needed or some sort of tune on the engine (after warranty is up of course) to help pulling up hills. I've modified my vehicles since I was a teenager, that is part of it for me.
I just want to know exactly what I'm dealing with in regards to the chassis, overall weights, and specified tow ratings...it seems like such a grey area with these RVs that most would rather not discuss. I get it, nobody wants to be liable should something unfortunate happen...but just the fact that 2 different manufacturers have now upped their tow ratings on these models beyond the typical 5,000# rating shows that there is a need or demand for this.
I suspect that the main thing I'll have to watch for is the rear axle carrying capacity...which might be totally reliant on the wheelbase and how much weight is behind the rear axle. Even though the chassis may be rated for 22,000#, the rear axle may be only rated for 17,500# (just a guess, I have not looked it up yet) and it may be close to that limit before putting any tongue weight on it at all. This is why I brought up weight distribution hitches, to transfer some of the trailer weight to the front axle of the TV.
And again, please remember this...I'm not talking about pulling an 8,000# trailer. My open car trailer weighs around 2,000# with gear and the car is 3500#...I can't see it going over 6,000# even in a worst case scenario. The trailer has brakes and pulls VERY comfortably behind my 3/4 ton gas engine truck and I can adjust the tongue weight very easily just by positioning the car on the trailer, lots of room to go either way.
All of my tow rating experience comes from trucks, and I've towed just about everything one can imagine at one time or another with trucks, both within manufacture specs and beyond. I'm well aware of the pitfalls of pulling a load that is beyond the capabilities of the tow vehicle.
Where I don't have experience is figuring out the tow capabilities of an RV, specifically a Class B+ or C. Where or how does one figure out such pitfalls or concern area of pushing the rated tow limit on one of these?
Obviously the hitch strength itself should be the first concern along with it's attachment point to the chassis. One has to assume if it's labeled at 8,000#, it'll tow, stop and handle that load safely.
The next concern would be the chassis itself...has it been modified (extended) by someone after it left the manufacturer and did this modification affect the manufacturer tow rating one way or the other? This is the big question mark for me...
Drivetrain, engine, trans, rear axle, rear springs all being rated to tow 7500-8000 from the chassis manufacturer...this is little concern to me. These things can all be upgraded if they lack just a little bit in driver comfort when towing close to the limit. I am not concerned about putting helper air bags on the rear suspension if needed or some sort of tune on the engine (after warranty is up of course) to help pulling up hills. I've modified my vehicles since I was a teenager, that is part of it for me.
I just want to know exactly what I'm dealing with in regards to the chassis, overall weights, and specified tow ratings...it seems like such a grey area with these RVs that most would rather not discuss. I get it, nobody wants to be liable should something unfortunate happen...but just the fact that 2 different manufacturers have now upped their tow ratings on these models beyond the typical 5,000# rating shows that there is a need or demand for this.
I suspect that the main thing I'll have to watch for is the rear axle carrying capacity...which might be totally reliant on the wheelbase and how much weight is behind the rear axle. Even though the chassis may be rated for 22,000#, the rear axle may be only rated for 17,500# (just a guess, I have not looked it up yet) and it may be close to that limit before putting any tongue weight on it at all. This is why I brought up weight distribution hitches, to transfer some of the trailer weight to the front axle of the TV.
And again, please remember this...I'm not talking about pulling an 8,000# trailer. My open car trailer weighs around 2,000# with gear and the car is 3500#...I can't see it going over 6,000# even in a worst case scenario. The trailer has brakes and pulls VERY comfortably behind my 3/4 ton gas engine truck and I can adjust the tongue weight very easily just by positioning the car on the trailer, lots of room to go either way.
