A/C Question

You are good with that set up for running 1 AC

twenty amp female outlets will always accept a 15 amp male plug.

k9-keno wrote:
Doug you are correct it's a 50 amp to 15 dogbone pig tail. As far as the outlet I used a 20amp breaker with yellow 12-2 directly to a 20amp gfi outlet. But yes you are right it it must be 15amp I guess since it allows the 15amp dog bone to connect to it???? :h

Doug you are correct it's a 50 amp to 15 dogbone pig tail. As far as the outlet I used a 20amp breaker with yellow 12-2 directly to a 20amp gfi outlet. But yes you are right it it must be 15amp I guess since it allows the 15amp dog bone to connect to it???? :h

dougrainer wrote:

k9-keno wrote:
2007



Class A with 2 Carrier Air V's.

20amp house breaker dedicated line to a 20amp gfi outlet. Then I have a 20amp to 50amp pig tail to camper 50amp cable.

Meter that I have that plugs in to electrical outlet in camper shows with nothing really on green about 118volts. I know I can't run to AC units but when I turn one on the meter stays in green and runs it down to like 114 to 115 volt but still at the bottom of green zone on meter. Ac unit runs fine. Is this a safe set up and will it damage ac unit or something else. Thanks for any input.

You do not have a 20 amp GFCI outlet on a dedicated 20 amp breaker. You may have a 20 amp breaker and a 20 amp GFCI, but unless you had someone install the wiring from your House breaker box to that GFCI, odds are that circuit is rated at 15 amps. Unless your wall plug pins look like this I -- and not this II, you have a 15 amp rated plug. ll slots in a receptacle are 15 amp rated. You also do not have a 50 to 20 pigtail. They are 50 to 15 amp Dogbones. Unless you have found a 50 to 20, which I have never seen. Remember, it is NOT just the line voltage you should be concerned about. It is the AMP draw that will cause heat build up when you do what you do. Fan Moors are not the concern. It is the Compressor, that is the concern from lower voltage. I would get a Digital multitester and read the ACTUAL line voltage and compare the voltage reading to that cheap plug in meter you are using. I have found that those cheap plug in meters with the needle can be OFF up to 20% from reading the true voltage. Doug

Hi

Outlets and plugs are rated to 75 C (167 f). I prefer to not go higher than 50 C (122 f). I use a "point and shoot" thermometer to check that out.

I can limit the amperage I draw so I'll "dial it down" if I'm getting overheating.

As long as the plug at the GFCI is cool to the touch I would not worry about it. I did this for several years before I added my 50 and RV Service box. I did make sure not to run any other electrical devices such as the reefer and battery chargers when the A/C was on. My current inverter allows me to set the charge current to 5 amps when I am on limited power away from home and this helps. Keep the connections cool and go for it.

k9-keno wrote:
2007 Class A with 2 Carrier Air V's.

20amp house breaker dedicated line to a 20amp gfi outlet. Then I have a 20amp to 50amp pig tail to camper 50amp cable.

Meter that I have that plugs in to electrical outlet in camper shows with nothing really on green about 118volts. I know I can't run to AC units but when I turn one on the meter stays in green and runs it down to like 114 to 115 volt but still at the bottom of green zone on meter. Ac unit runs fine. Is this a safe set up and will it damage ac unit or something else. Thanks for any input.

You do not have a 20 amp GFCI outlet on a dedicated 20 amp breaker. You may have a 20 amp breaker and a 20 amp GFCI, but unless you had someone install the wiring from your House breaker box to that GFCI, odds are that circuit is rated at 15 amps. Unless your wall plug pins look like this I -- and not this II, you have a 15 amp rated plug. ll slots in a receptacle are 15 amp rated. You also do not have a 50 to 20 pigtail. They are 50 to 15 amp Dogbones. Unless you have found a 50 to 20, which I have never seen. Remember, it is NOT just the line voltage you should be concerned about. It is the AMP draw that will cause heat build up when you do what you do. Fan Moors are not the concern. It is the Compressor, that is the concern from lower voltage. I would get a Digital multitester and read the ACTUAL line voltage and compare the voltage reading to that cheap plug in meter you are using. I have found that those cheap plug in meters with the needle can be OFF up to 20% from reading the true voltage. Doug

114 is all clear and good to go. That meter is very conservative on where it marks the green.

I have run my A/C at 105 volts, you are fine.

You can read the label or manual, but most of the electric motors are 110V rated.

So long as you stay at 108 volts or above all is well.